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the mats work out to about £12 m2 which aint to bad mate all things considered

wp will give you nothing but time,if you need it use it,but if you can work without it well then you can call yourself a spread :D

thats a bit like concuring only thats banned.

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acrylic textures are floated so give a smooth finnish,if the rest of the house is painted and the colour is to british standard weatherby will be able to match with thier range of heck siliconharzputz,theve got their own tint machine.

no m8 the paper face has to be left intact,and yes id have thought you could buy the powders much cheaper.

there are many reasons render will crack,maybe the render was to strong for the background as this will bring the kind of thing you describe,it may be solid now but unless you deal with the cracks you will get water ingress that will blow in the end,consider an acrylic primer then an acrylic...

micilin,no mate the kingspans we use are the pink board with a paper face. ben,you could modify your own top coat,but the base coat needs to be hp12 or similar,you will get more than 4m2 if a tight coat solution is used,the boards are breathable,you might want to try rockwool bats as your base...

ply all the way round then phenolic screwed on ,meshed and beaded to suit the finnish,did 120 for wolvo five years ago ,forget sto ,to expensive,try a k solution,phone the reps they will help more than you think. edit to say phone weatherby and you will get help.

dont want to get into a row but galve will rust on the cuts at the end of the sheets,i haven't been able to use galve for years,rc im afraid a lot of steel mesh systems are started from the bottom up,i now its back to front but its the only way to go without filling the cavity,***** you now its...

just paint it mate ,mist coat an two coats of decent paint =jobs a good un,just let the coats dry tight.

don't think you will hide that one unless you respray the full aspect!

used k scratch plasters and their dashing mortar and they are sound,the colour is up to you and so is the type/colour of the stone,if thats the way your going use their scratch coat to,theres more than one,give k a ring they can be helpful in deciding your matts.

Be careful with covering over with Hibuild or similar coatings as you need the back ground to be flat enough - some of them are just basically thick paint with texture ie you are following what's there, but just deadening the contours a bit. not quite mate ,acrlic textures are floated...

thin coats of sand and cement don't really work,you could buy a tight coat poly render like hpx -hp12 and prime up with rendaid or consider a silicon /acrylic texture which when layed on thick can cover some bad work.

imo wet dash is the stongest of the renders.

going rate for hack and spread two coats to flat on a tiny job like that will cost you £60 a square.

jr mate if you want to slow a set just add a good dollop of pva to your mix,don't matter if its skim,backing ,dabbing or render,and you can take that from a time served pro ,honest i asked him before i posted,dabbin addy will slow your set to just over an hour but tends to tear.

cream of what,salad dressing wont help your plastering mate(but i've heard an onion salad can slow a set)

sto is good,but as micilin says to get the best guarantees you need to be approved,you can buy the same mats from anybody,just you wont get ten years on the fix,its also expensive,the brick effect can be done to insulated board by either brick slips or two coat cut work but beware even when done...