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  1. M

    Strange solid wall bond & wall ties?

    Can you post any photos of the cracks?
  2. M

    Old Garage

    Re the 'asbestos' roofing, when you take it off keep it in large sections. Don't break it up, (I believe (but don't quote me) that they only contain around 4% asbestos). If you do demolish it then you will probably need planning permission even to rebuild on the same footprint. Photos would...
  3. M

    Laying a new concrete floor .

    Your existing floor will only get worse and if you are going to install a new kitchen then now is the time to bite the bullet. Builder to do the lot around £1000-1500 (variables e.g. access, geographical location, skip costs and so on) To save on costs I would consider ripping out the existing...
  4. M

    Patching existing render

    1. Just damp down (tap water) the existing brick/blockwork prior to 1st coat. 2. Depends on how thick the existing render is, say 18mm (10mm 1st coat, 8mm 2nd coat). 3. I use a 4:1 and 6:1:1 on concrete block (lots of different variables for stone, brick, age of building etc). 4. fine sharp...
  5. M

    Chimney breasts

    Bryan Are the chimney stacks still present above the roof line? If they are then you have answered your own post as something has to hold that brickwork up. A word of caution. Not so long ago had a look at a job on semi-detached house where they were taking out the 1st floor chimney breasts...
  6. M

    concrete driveway

    An exterior 2 part acrylic flooring compound (used much like latex flooring compound) can be laid very thinly. I've used it over an existing concrete base with no sign of breaking up a couple of years later. F.Ball certainly make one, the only prep I did before laying was ensuring the...
  7. M

    Damp proofing for garden walls?

    If a DPC is inserted into the blockwork it will create a slip joint and you would probably find that the weight of the backfill behind the retaining wall will eventually push it off the blockwork below the DPC. As for putting a DPM behing the wall this would be pointless. The only thing that I...
  8. M

    Engineered trusses versus trusses cut and built onsite?

    Give me a cut roof everytime, nice sized timbers, alter it as you like (within reason), stick another rooflight in 10 years later without worrying about affecting windloading and so on. Trusses are ok, for what they are (a skinny bit of engineered timber). Plus they only ever give you the...
  9. M

    Mortar mix

    Sharp sand mix: If you let the sharp sand/cement mix run in the mixer for 30 mins with only very little water added initially it eventually starts behaving much as soft sand (building sand), add water towards the end and then only a very small amount at a time until consistency acceptable. I...
  10. M

    roof venterlation

    I'm not an expert on ventilation but being slate you do not want to try inserting tile/slate type vents. Have you got fascias? If so have the eaves slates got enough give to insert over fascia vents? Otherwise maybe remove existing ridges (probably on a mortar bed) and re-fix them using a...
  11. M

    roof domes

    Most of them are made from polycarbonate which is a lot harder to break than glass. If you were a burglar wouldn't you just break a ground floor window? Very easy to fit. Cut roof covering to suit dome upstand, cut 'supported' joists, insert trimmers, fit dome on flashing or upstand, flood...
  12. M

    This doesn't look right!!

    I should have looked at page2 (everyone thinks it's for a flat roof). Doh.
  13. M

    This doesn't look right!!

    nstreet That was exactly my thought when I saw first photo. Using a 90eg flashing it won't take long for the flashing to work its way back up the flue again, particularly without the weight of the tiles to either side.
  14. M

    pitch roof wall plate

    Some concrete interlocking tiles go to 17.5deg granular and 15deg smooth, or there are a couple of slate looking interlocking tiles that go to 12.5deg. Def need a purlin in that scenario.
  15. M

    Lead Gully overflows and leaks - I think

    Have you lifted any of the tiles on the leaking side? The tile should lap over the lead at least as much as the headlap on the tiles and the lead should be folded over on itself at the leading edge. A photo would help.
  16. M

    Refillable caulking tube

    We just use old washing up bottles for this, works a treat.
  17. M

    Cement Mixer - what kind/make?

    Buy cheap pay twice. The cheap side mixers with the tilt wheel do not last, even with very light use they really struggle to cope from day one, mix one. Even if you only use the Belle for one job every year it will last.
  18. M

    Cement Mixer - what kind/make?

    No question of it. For a relatively marginal extra sum I would and do go for Belle mini mixers every time. They last us around 2-5 years, working pretty much full time. Petrol or electric doesn't matter, just keep the oil topped up. AND clean the drum at the end of the day.
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