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and a o/vent boiler will be cheaper to buy as there in no pump diverter e.t.c inside the boiler its all next to your cylinder

I would keep the cylinder if in good nick and just change the boiler for another o/vent, less work for you and the installer , and as been said before when the boiler breaks down you will have hot water and sometimes you can wait 3-5 days form a engineer to come out

Could be a pipe been too tightened so has crucnched the olive , or not tight enough , hard to say till you see it and have a look at it

Yeah you get what you pay for to be honest upgarde to the higher end models and stay away from the cheap boilers , there cheap for a reason

Thats sound a fair price to me

if the rad is colder at the bottom possible sludge and if cold at the top needs bleeding , and re balancing

yeah agree add trv and do a chemical flush before hand

this is a very tricky one i can see both sides ,but he did say turn on and don't leave

Yeah as you have done no work run the taps and hopefully it will sort it self out , by them saying they have done no work could possibly mean we have but don't want to admit a mistake some where along the line

the pcb is probably ok as it's been changed so check faulty pump,blockages, airlocks e.t.c

Check your boiler can handle it and tee off 22mm then 15mm to rad

True flush out the system and see how you go as the system should be flushed before a new boiler goes in anyway

oxidation

Check mi's

See a rgi for help and advice

Best to cap the pipe so no one can turn it on

Well they should be doing their gas checks thoroughly and should be able to find a leak if shows up on the tests

Agree with the guys most courses won't tell you the real story unless you get a senior engineer on the course

Hard to guage until you have have seen the job

I agree with agile mostly old pipes were steel and capped off using stell fittings now mostly are copper and more expensive and quicker