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just a quick point-after looking at the y plan and s plan wiring diagrams-i know HOW the systems work/link together BUT on the S PLAN the power to the cyl stat from the programmer should surely go to C and not 1!?? otherwise it doesn't make sense?? is it a fault with the diagram?

my nan has a back boiler (gas) and a fully pumped system (3 port mid, grundfos 15:50 pump, etc) - i thought injector tees were only used on gravity h/w and pumped heating systems?

hmmm i see, so basically if the bath is a few inches shorter than the space, cut a wooden batten of the correct size, insert it between the bath and wall, and tile over the wooden part that is showing?...

oh ok that sounds ok. i just was worried as i've seen baths with wooden frames, etc all around them and i'm not a carpenter!!! i know some baths have screws that are chased into the wall also!

ok so will the bath i choose tell me i need chipboard??! or will that also come with the bath?

I am thinking about install a new bath (just a basic one from wickes/b and q) - am thinking of getting a plastic type. my old one is green and looks horrible and i want a white one!! i can do some plumbing, the taps/waste, et including pipework would be no probs for me, it's just I have heard...

AIRLOCKS ARE A BUGGER!!!! I drained my central heating system and got one and it took a while-i had the hot taps on for 1/2 hour and it finally got better!!!

thing is surely you cannot leave a waste dripping - in a customers home!!! the water will build up and eventually drip through the ceiling!!!! i put a new waste in ym bathroom basin about a year or so ago and used a plastic washer and backnut that came with it and put a bit of plumbers mate put...

the cyl stat call (1) usually puts the power to pump and boiler (as mid pos valve is already open to hot water i guess.

yeah thats what i thought, it is live and 230v but the motor is just not energised as it is already in the open position (port A is blocked).

just need to quickly check something if possible... when turning hot water ON from the programmer the 3 port mid is already open to H/WATER? So SHOULD the orange wire be live??

lol yes i understand your point!! but i managed to sort that problem!! it was a faulty motorised valve! the spindle was seized and stuck in one position. so i had to remove the whole valve and actuator, after draining down the system!!! and fit a new one! was ok, not as bad as i thought...

Hiya-am thinking about updating my CH system so I can have hot water and heating on at diff times. at the moment i cannot have for example hot water on from 6-8 amd heating 7-9, they have to be on together. it is an old drayton programmer. to replace it, will the wiring be the same, or will...

hello, i have a few simple basic electrical related questions that i wonder if anyone could help me with...? 1) an mcb trips the circuit if a current over that of the mcb is put down the cable? but why are there 2 fuses/mcbs for the same circuit? for eg/ one in the customer consumer box and...

when replacing a F & E cistern (i want a new clean one with a proper lid)!! do they come in standard sizes as cold water tanks do? Or is there a way to work out roughly what size is required by calculating the water volume in your heating pipes/boiler/circuit? I know my feed cistern is pretty...

OK thanks for the advice! I think I'll stick to a Stainless Steel sink then!! :) JUst wondered if I had an option though or if Plastic Sinks were installed differently and could possible be swapped?!

I am sorry! I am not winding you up intentionally! Really sorry. Just as mentioned I want to be 100percent sure before working on it as electrics can kill... My apologies once again.

i know what you mean, the previous owner blanked off the immersion heater boss with a cap. and over time it has got stiff and stuck! using heat may be a good idea, or some other type of lubricant also might help. as said before though be careful as you don't want to have to buy a new cylinder...

Hi - I agree I am not 100percent sure hot to use a multi meter and i'll have to read the instruction slowly and carfeully before attempting to use it! I have a book I bought a little while ago, called Central Heating Fault Finding & Repair. It is very good, very detailed. That's why I...

ok, let me try and get this straight!!!! :D I have to touch the unsheathed part of the grey wire (as mentioned before) from the motorised valve, and any neutral blue wire (unsheated part also) in the junction box with another probe from the multimeter? I know all neutrals wire up in the same...