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come on then, you can't leave us hanging like that.... what's your decision?

I would clip the cables to the joists where possible to keep them off the concrete and get a cat!

The conduit box or elbow at the bottom of the conduit drop should have a drain hole drilled out in it to prevent water/condensation building up

I would check the connections in the two lights that are not working. If the living room light comes after the hallway light for example, a loose connection will affect both lights

Well you might get away with a 10A mcb - but only if you've wired the lights in 1.5mm cable and there's no insulation around the cables Really that many lights should be split into at least 2 circuits. Is this not possible to do?

Is there a second fuse board upstairs? It looks like one cable goes down in the conduit and then another into the wall - maybe to upstairs? Or even next door (not unknown) It sure looks like there are 2 main fuses in the head anyway....

If you're using a single 1.0mm or 1.5mm flex then a 10mm bit should be fine.

thanks John - that's very helpful.Do you think I can still replace the print head device or is my printer too old?

HI all I have a DELL 1320C colour laser printer - probably a 3 or 4 years old and defo out of warranty I've noticed that the page prints a bit dirty (not like that!) - can I do anything about this? eg clear part of the printer? I've looked on line for the manual but can't find anything as...

Don't go Hagar - you'll never comfortably fit the cables in - and they have those c*appy plastic screws for the front cover. Wylex metal clad - tonnes of room....

You can bet NICIEC ain't going to tell me that - they'll be missing out on ££££££'s

So does this mean that I don't have to notify any circuit alteration work in a kitchen then? Thus saving me £3.60 each time??

He should really have fitted it - the point of it is so that if you need to work on the fan, you can isolate it and keep the lights on. However, in cases where there is a window I will generally not insist on retro fitting one - the principle being that you'd be working on the fan in the...

and once you've wired it properly, you might need to check that the reset button hasn't popped out

Do tell - we're all dying to know.....

Why not ask the qualified electrician who is coming to sign off the work? BTW, we're not allowed to sign off someone else's work as our own (understandably) so the best you can hope for is an EICR (Electrical Installation Condition Report) rather than an EIC (Electrical Installation Certificate)

go large - it'll make life so much easier...

Crazy! Most of my work will still be notifiable, so I'll be sticking with NICEY

It might be possible to move this circuit to the 'peak' fuse board, but it will need to be tested first, checks made regarding bonding and supplementary bonding plus of course there needs to be capacity in the board. A job for an electrician I think SB

Hi 17th - interesting that you say that no one would be interested if you did EICR first. I've found just the opposite and now always do one - so generally a board change is a 2 day job (which allows some time for the inevitable remedials.....) Looking back I wonder how/why I put myself...