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yup - still not quite lost the ability to use a ruler...

I'm sure it's there, but I'm now feeling a bit depressed as I'm obviously getting so old that I can't see it with out visual aids! Thanks for the guidance SB

Hi there Thanks for the quick reply. I'll have to get a magnifying glass then as the writing is SOOOO small. No writing on the board underneath the fuse (well it says FU - which I hope stands for fuse....)... Cheers SB

Hi everyone I need to replace this fuse which was in the circuit board of a florescent site light. It has some writing on it but all I can manage to read is 230-250V. It's 1 cm long Sorry about the rubbish pic and cake crumb... Thanks SB

Possibly you have wrecked the thread on the screws/terminals? are the screws going in exactly at 90 degrees? Do they 'stop' turning. If not then it's a possible...

or you could crimp it - using a proper racket crimper. That's what I'd do

You really aren't listening to the advice given - are you? No sparky is able (or would want to) sign off anyone else's work esp a DIY'er. Why should I risk my reputation and livelihood sighing off work done by someone I don't know and who doesn't' know the regulations? We do care, for...

Price sounds reasonable - and if they feel more comfortable with the first electrician, then go with him/her. first instinct are often right!

oooo dear - I rest my case!! :shock:

very carefully.... If space allows, once you have the fitting down a bit you can use a screwdriver to push the wings back. Or just get your tub of filler out Good luck SB

Might even be lead sheathed cable, with separate earth run - seen this a few times before on rewires... By the way, you will find it pretty impossible to get a sparky to sign off any work that you do, as we are not allowed to do it! SB

Another vote for sparkwright's method - that's how I'd do it SB

Please don't tar all us DI's with the same brush. I've seem some appalling EICR's fom AC's too..... Do we even know it's a DI? It could be anyone, just trying it on to 'make' work for themselves as is so often the case SB

No problem - main bonding needs to be in place before any work is done (ie not just that in bathroom) The supp bonds need to be to hot, cold and rad pipes, plus any metalwork such as the bath - it's often easier to RCD using rcbo or for lights an RCD FCU with 5A fuse near the fuse board unit...

not if both main and supplementary equipotential bonding are in place. In some cases it's easier and more aesthetically pleasing to RCD

not sure I get the reply - but perhaps you are thinking that the tilt won't enable you to retrofit LED lamps as they are larger than normal lamps? You can get good LED's now that are the same size. Also dirt and dead insects collecting around the base of a lamp do present a possible fire...

Also I think you'll find a meter of cable is not enough - don't forget you have the have it long enough so you can get the oven out without undue strain on the cable connections.....and move it to one side so you can get into the space where it's connected to the outlet......

no we love you coz more £ for us, when we have to sort out your bodges.... NOT!