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I certainly don’t have the correct sanders for that, nor the will power! Interesting - I would have thought peelstop here rather than Guardz? Not clear to me what the difference is in fairness

I think I’d be scratching my head forever trying to figure out the cause, to be honest. It is odd it was fine on the first coat though…Do you have any suggestions as to how I can sort it?

Yeah old emulsion in the area that’s blistered. The previous owners had the walls everywhere reskimmed. I am fairly certain they didn’t mist coat as there’s plenty of flaking paint in other rooms. Potentially that’s what’s causing the issue but the paint wasn’t flaking in that area previously…

Hi all, Yesterday evening I applied a coat of primer in our spare room. All went on fine but wasn’t totally happy with the coverage, the walls have had a fair bit of work done to them and so decided to do a second coat this afternoon. However in some spots the primer has blistered as you can...

In the end I don’t think it was quite as bad as I thought. I ran some 4mm strip wood set back from the frame, once I offered the architrave up to that it was okay for the most part. One area I had to sand back the back of the architrave where the plaster was particularly proud. A bit of caulk...

Hi all, I've got a bit of a job on my hands fitting architrave. The plaster is proud which is a fairly common problem, and I believe the solution here is to fit some stripwood set back from the frame, have it flush to the plaster and then fit your architrave to that, again set back from the...

No, this is an 100 year old house! Proper brick solid wall

It’s going in to a masonry wall. Resin fixing sounds a bit extreme for a radiator?

Hi all, I’ve just had a 3 column rad delivered. It’s come with 6 brackets with two holes each, but only 6 fixings (expansion bolts). Instructions aren’t offering much clarity on which I should be using. Understand the oval hole will allow some adjustment but why would they not supply enough...

Most effective I’ve found is a few hits sideways either way with a hammer then pull and wiggle with some pliers

Paid a grand total of £1.69 each for the blanks at SF, bit of a no brainer given how much damage it’d do if the valve opened

Read a few horror stories like this so I’ve gone belt and braces! Decorators cap on the TRV and then blank nuts on both.

Cheers for the advice all! Managed to get it off in the end, pretty fiddly as there was basically zero play on the return end so had to get it clear of the flow pipe and take it off sideways. Check out what I found underneath!

@gas112 love it! just need to find a 5p now :LOL: doesn't really seem to be cooling down on 0, can hear the flow reducing but clearly something still getting in. Either that or the lockshield is fitted on the flow end which is very possible

@pcaouolte I was hoping to be able to get away with putting turning it down to 0 then capping the the radiator side of the valve. I’ll see if it eventually cools down otherwise decorators cap it is.

Thanks everyone for your input. I've acquired a radiator spanner, plumb tub and a stop cap for the valve once I've got the rad off. However, I'm not sure I have total faith in the TRV that's currently fitted even for the short time before I get the stop cap on. I've checked the pin and there is...

Yep he’ll be plastering behind it. It is heating, that’s no issue. But I need it off for the plasterer and thought I needed to bleed it prior to taking off, otherwise I’ll have a vacuum at the top?

@terryplumb we’ve got a plasterer in that room soon, would rather not put the new one in till he’s done

Makes total sense. Best way to not get soaked? Assume if I just take the old one out I’ll need a bucket handy!

@gas112 thank you for that! I’ve been searching all combinations of bleed, screw and valve. Didn’t know it was called an air vent! Do I have to use that, or can I replace with a modern valve? Not particularly bothered as replacing the rad in a few weeks anyway, but just curious