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With out going on and on as you are having a rewire anyway it sounds as though you have an earth fault or a borrowed neutral, as you haven 't touched the other circuits that doesen't seem likely. More likely is the rodent damage you referred to earlier .Try taking the other neutrals out from the...

It would'nt thats another issue . You have probably an earth to neutral fault on the rcd side , if you havent interfered with any of the other circuits and linked a neutral. One circuit at a time on to the rcd will show you which one is tripping. You really need to find out your earthing...

If it is a TT you need two rcd,s in most circumstances . I really think you need the circuits tested, you need to know the Zs is low enough for the unprotected side of the board.

Is this a split load board as you say in your op.?

Take the tester out and remove that circuit, re-apply the others and see if it holds.

Take the individual circuits out and replace them one at a time ,see if the rcd holds after you apply each circuit. LN and E , thats the easiest way if you have no gear . You may have a borrowed N , but that should have showed before now.

Fair enough- Have you paired the neutrals on the rcd side accurately?

There is a switch that the door catch operates to activate the door interlock, this may be u/s or has worked loose with vibration.

I thought about that after I posted , but I took it to be "spinning" as opposed to turning in both directions. :oops:

Have you checked the pump is clear. It won't be the motor if it is functioning normally on other cycle's. Your timer could be faulty also , is it a mechanical type? Has it got a no spin cycle; some have, Just a thought.

I did one of these a few ago , but fortunately only the outside walls were concrete. I was not aware that it was a prefab as the outer walls had been bricked over and the insides had been plaster boarded. It was when I came to do the outside lighting I discovered it was solid reinforced...

Certainly were the most work has to be done it could well be worth dot and dabbing. No easy way round it, back to back a few sockets and light switches,the rest just plain hard work I'm afraid. Depends how good the interior is it may be a bonus to dot and dab the lot.

Asda do three for a fiver, I haven't used them myself but I have seen them in use to control plinth lighting and have performed OK for over two years. I agree with bernardgreen as regards accidental switching.

Give us a clue , what size is it ;and how have you worked out your demand, 9kw is going to cost you around £1.50 an hour.

It looks pretty bad , had loads of burned neutrals inside showers and in the switches but nothing like that. Did the breaker or rcd go eventually?

I suspect he may be looking at the Shower cpd , Local Sparky the best bet I think.

4mm is good for 37 amps clipped direct and 28 amps in conduit or trunking. Other factors affect the rating of the cable ,ie- run in insulation, this will reduce the current carrying capacity even further . Most cookers don't run at the plate rating -ie the grill and oven can't be used...

No one can answer that but you I'm afraid. Your cable is more liklly to be six mm than 10mm . 6mm is good for 46 amps clipped direct and 38 amps in conduit or trunking. your cooker will have a diversity allowance , meaning that the total plate rating wont be required at the same time. Hope...

Your local sparky will probably do it cheaper than that. Some cookers are awkward to physically wire in, and can be a right pain. Some need the hobs linked- as some are designed for multi phases. But 10mm is fine for that ,if that is what it is, and not a football field away from the...

http://www.amazon.co.uk/16th-IEE-Wiring-Regulations-Certification/dp/0750665416/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1303166078&sr=1-2 Iv'e got the old version of this , if the new one is as good it'll be ok. Testing hasn't changed anyway so worth a look.