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I would drill 1/2" hole in the middle of the sprung coving, 1" from the end and then shoot coving adhesive into it so it fills in the back and also crosses over to the adjacent piece, then push the sprung bit back into place and secure. Securing is the hard bit but a couple of nails up against...

Trying to squirt anything into a zero mm gap aint going to hold

AS Morq says, but does not look like you have the upward movement available but if you could you would be advised to use some support bricks for the radiator to rest on when hinged downwards to prevent strain on the feed pipes. Other option is to place bungs in the feed and expansion pipes so...

Yes he asked a long question

Why do you want to remove the radiator, if it's just to decorate and then put it back there is another option.

Well one of the valves isn't working so assuming it's the radiator valve you need to remove the top control section of this via the knurled nut holding it in place and replace it with a capping piece that holds the thermostat pin down

I would definitely say you have air trapped in that section of raised pipe but to what extent??. Possibly if you had the pumps at high speed it would push the air out and into the radiators for bleeding off but I would also imagine that the isolating valves are severely restricting the flow...

Sorry I said rafters for some obscure reason when I meant the ceiling joists.

What distance do your rafters span, what support walls if any are underneath the span of the rafters

Yes you flagged it up in post 1021, currently watching it agan in 10 mins chunks to try and stay focused

Probably when I got to the graph, I now understand candles but when all the other horizontal, zig zag, rising lines appear it blows the mind, but I guess its just a matter of persevering (if I can be so inclined? Went through your stuff with Arbu and he really wanted to get his head around it...

No, air bubble is under the same pressure as the water it is contained in, where it is located or moves to makes no difference

And there it goes again, straight over my head and into the stratosphere :rolleyes: So I thought I'll go back to Post 1 and start going through the thread from the start, got to post 18 and started to lose it, post 20 totally gone. Gone back to my financial strategy, look in the bank account...

My system has been in for 28 years and have 3 old defunct actuators in my garage so 7 years is about right, it seems to be the micro switches that give up the ghost and switching in and out for several years I am not surprised

You sure its not a leaking stop cock on the water supply line to the property?

You tell me??

Flow rate into tank = flow rate out . Only time flow goes into tank should be when foul flow occurs from property i.e toilet/sink/bath/shower. Sounds as if there is ground water infiltration in to feed pipes and bottom of pipe blocked up due to septic tank not being emptied for a very long time.

Now that is posh a wardrobe with a window to hang your suit up

Changed my mind, would bring mortar all the way up to level in one go and forget the self levelling so that its all held down in a monolithic block and tied in to brickwork gaps, may even put some nails into joist for mortar to tie into. Apologies to noseall who will now have a fit.

Well I have to close my static ( not suite) down in Skegness next week so I'll keep the thread alive and update in due course