Search results

Well if he goes through the water company and then they accept the responsibility of it as a shared drain then they will be responsible for the maintenance and repair of the section of drain currently in your garden which at the moment is your responsibility, what is there to lose

Have a look a Kingston K118 brochure for some guidance

I guess it all depends whether you have a soot covered flue when you decide to cap it off as to any ensuing problems, mine must have been OK???

That has been my philosophy on the couple of chimney's I have capped, blocked off at the top, blocked off at the bottom, no moisture to get in from above or below and I'll treat it as if it is cavity wall space like what the rest of the house has

It is heart warming that we both agree that your condescending response to the OP was unnecessary but it probably made you feel like Donald Trump at the time

Because it was not obvious to the OP, a bit like it wasn't obvious to you why the OP needed this forum and why you needed this forum to tell you that. And a bit like it not being obvious to me whether Nikita is in the male or female format so I stuck to identifying the poster as OP.

Or perhaps isolate the supply at the water companies stop valve

Thats over 21 months of thinking about it, no rush then?

Hi, builder at bottom of garden is proposing to construct poolroom/gym. So what was once on open vista at the bottom of my garden will now become a Captain Tom brickwork carbuncle . I plan to object based on something I saw once about impairing the enjoyable use of ones garden or some sort of...

Live and learn :)

If you are happy with your calcs go for it, I used 3 different sources for my calcs and they all differed ( its not that exact a science) so based everything on the larger fig.

Looks like a quite good creative idea to seal/hide the gap and does the job, why change?

Taking the standard Delta T50 fig and working with Kudox radiators in theory you have around 10000BTU output, perhaps they were sized on a T30 Delta which would give you 5000BTU?

No different from millions of other houses that do not have any paving stones cracks for the water to drain down through and so drains wherever the rain lands

Frictionless pipework then?

Tolerant in what way? If it was oversized for the required output it would still heat the rads up until your room thermostat indicated the necessary temp had been reached and then switch off, possibly do the job faster and work less efficiently (but was only 75% in the first place)

Not sure what the bucket test consists of but if I was trying to clear an high level air lock I would be trying to push water through the system as fast/forceful as possible. To this end I would disconnect the radiator and if possible run a discharge hosepipe from each of the valves to some...

Suggest airlock in ceiling run of pipework.

Yes, go bigger and let the TRV do the controlling, main thing is confirm your boiler out put capable of providing necessary btus and everything else falls into place ( after you have balanced the radiators)

That's not even the length of a brick so it's not going to distribute any load more than resting it directly on the brickwork ( of course it could be there just make up a level to rest the beam on but at 5.2 that's a fairish size