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I've used this drill for core drilling. It has a clutch, and will easily do 40mm (did a 150mm one for me earlier this year) One thing is it's bloody heavy- but it's a good workout for the guns

That looks like a fairly modern build with a cavity wall, not single skin. That should have been built to withstand the soil touching it, if was always going to be built into the side of a hill It looks like a DPM is there just above the soil level, so it could be your decking that is causing...

Not really. Easiest way to make it better (probably not solve it), would be a trench all round the outside to bellow the DPC. Then tanking slurry or paintable DPM, then backfill with gravel. But if it wasn't built to be surrounded by soil in the first place, it can be very difficult, if not...

Due to hydrostatic pressure, tanking like that is always at risk of failure. You would be better digging back the ground outside and waterproofing the outside of the wall

Well if you have 100mm to play with, ignore my previous comments. Sheet DPM should work, then cheapest I imagine would be self mixed followed by ready mix concrete. However it will take a fair bit of prep to make sure you get it level. You may need to use self leveling afterwards to get it...

2 inches at the lowest point is a bit thin to use screed, let alone sheet DPM I reckon. I've seen 50mm being the thinnest you can go for bonded screed, and I don't know if you can do a bonded screed over sheet DPM.

There is a sticky in the flooring forum that discusses the best way to do this

If you want a valuation, as an estate agent, and be upfront. You will probably have to pay them, but my dad is developing a plot of land, and paid £500 for a 4 page report from a local EA on the potential valuations of different arrangements

Just hit it with the sledge. You will lose faith that you are doing anything but scratching it, then all of a sudden it will start to crack

Get some dye, screwfix sell drain tracing dye, mix it up in a watering can and wander round the outside of the house pouring water down any gullies or holes you can find. Just don't do them all at once, or you will never tell which one it is!

Ah, missed that they were wooden joists. Should stop offering DIY advice after too many pints!

That looks like block and beam to me. Pretty standard method of construction. Should be fine Edit: although usually has a screed over it I think?

I just dot and dabbed, with mechanical fixings, 40mm thick XPS tile board round pretty much all of my bathroom. Marmox or similar It's made it very cosy! 100% water proof, tile straight onto it and dead easy to put up, took me less than a day, including some awkward cuts.

Pretty much, plus the above point about preventing spread

No, but a load of insulation falling onto firemen might.

No, u value is equal to 1 divided by R value

Does the first paragraph of point number 20 show that access is allowed, and that agreement is preferable for all parties to prevent issues: "Under the Act, an Adjoining Owner and/or occupier must, when necessary, let in your workmen and your own surveyor or designer etc., to carry out works in...

U value is equal to 1/r value, so you should be able to convert R to U with a calculator

Worth having a look on YouTube, plenty of videos comparing adhesives in various scenarios. Like this one:

Without knowing what's there, its difficult to offer the best advice. Could be that you already have enough insulation in the floor, and it's lacking elsewhere, or your radiator is undersized