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Yes.

Then behind the ST6400C, if you follow the red wire from terminal 4, it should come out of a red, yellow and blue triple and earth cable. If you follow the yellow wire from this cable, I believe it links to another (yellow?) wire in a separate terminal block. As proof that this cable is the one...

I believe it isn't a white wire in your case, but instead it's this brown one... Could you show us the wiring behind the thermostat? I believe the stat wires are probably connected to the ST6400c, with a triple and earth cable - blue being neutral, red being live and yellow being the switched...

I believe it's to do with the capabilities of the motor. The valve is sprung to the closed position. If the closed position was in position B, the motor would have to fight not only the spring resistance, but also the flow pressure. With the closed position in position A, the motor has a reduced...

Good digging, that shows everything we've been missing from the etec manuals. 24 and 25 are definitely an (extra) low voltage power supply then.

What room are these pipes in? Is it a downstairs room near the kitchen i.e. a scullery. I'm wondering if it could be related to a vintage gas geyser installation, or similar.

Yes, the 3 core and earth should be reusable to power the Meross in the existing thermostats location. However, to work out the wiring correctly, we could do with knowing where the grey and black wires to the thermostat/timer terminals on the boiler, turn into the red and yellow wires on the...

I asked about the rad thermostat, as there was an 'industry standard' backplate i.e. one similar to a Hive, connected to the wiring centre, and I wondered what receiver may have sat on that - the wiring for the Hive for example, would need an additional link between L and terminal 1 to operate...

As it's a combi, the timed hot water function on the panel isn't required. I believe we have had some success in the past by suggesting the whole receiver unit is unclipped from the front of the boiler and the ribbon cable is disconnected. The receiver is connected to the boilers EMS bus...

All I would add to @Jurassicspark's comments - if you are taking the lath and plaster down, remove all the old insulation from the loft first, and thoroughly go over the loft with the canister vac - it makes for a far less messy experience. There may be laths going into an adjoining room - in my...

Since around 2010, Part L of the building regs has asked that the heating systems of houses built over a certain size, should be split into zones - for the sake of improving efficiency. How house builders have implemented this requirement, can sometimes be bewildering! How exactly does the...

I don't know if it's because we do a fair bit of machining, rather than building works, but grade 4.8 and 5.8 threaded rod (not bolts) are pretty standard for us....

I believe the yield and tensile strength of the grade 4.8 threaded bars could be at most around 20-25% less than that of a grade 5.8 bar. As above, a few more fixings should do the job, but have you asked for any recommendations from your structural engineer?

I'm afraid they're pricier than they once were, and you still need to mount the receiver relay in a location that's reasonably accessible, in case it breaks down. Suggested partly in jest, I'm sure most people, to avoid hassle, would stick to simple plastic switches! :)

Why not forget about wiring to the switches completely? I've got a couple of Lightwave RF switches with real metal faceplates, you only occasionally have to change the CR2032! :D Edit: new models are powered by a couple of AAA.

Is the wall solid behind the plaster, or could it be a layer of plasterboard? Although to me, it looks suspiciously like one of the walls in my house, where some lazy so and so skimmed over a wall covered in wallpaper/lining paper, without stripping it first :rolleyes:

I have extremely limited experience with these systems, so I will defer completely to @muggles and other professionals. But from what I see, it looks as if you are stuck between a rock and a hard place. For the hybrid boiler to utilise the heat pump, it needs to have the Smartec OpenTherm...

Both seem popular on this forum, with maybe the Wiser having a slightly better reputation. Both have the option of future expansion, via compatible smart TRVs etc. Yes, either of those kits should be correct.

I'm afraid I can't help with element choice, but it would be interesting to see if you get a resistance measurement with your DMM (although as has been said, an insulation tester would be better) between terminals and earth on the bottom element - just a final nail in the coffin! :)

As you have a multimeter, have you attempted to measure the resistance between the element connection and earth?