Search results

Lol, it was a landscaper on youtube bedding inspection covers, saying done it that way for years. I tried it at the weekend, gave a nice smooth curve, but didn't' like the grainy finish.

It's would perhaps have been nicer to sit on top of the last course.

Pointing is often done 3:1 anyway which is more grey. If you want to go even greyer, use a less orange/red sand. Our local plastering sand dries paler than our building sand. Also rugby cement is apparently darker. I'm doing the same job on my patio and have made up some test mixes. Small...

I've seen a damp sponge used before to smooth this over.

I expect it to leak when the wind drives the rain under your roof. Can't see the reason a dry bonding gutter wasn't used. Not sure what the legal side is when the neighbour wants to do this, but i'd have held out that they use the same slates and bond it in as original or don't do it. This is...

Anything non compressible will do really, wood, slate, tile etc. I've used plastic packers in the past, worked okay. Or notch a deeper timber.

I wouldn't accept this being done to my roof, no way! Terrible job.

Clout nails is what I've normally seen used and use myself. I didn't burst any blocks doing mine. Did plug and screw in one tricky dense block.

So just make sure you've got about 100mm of bearing either end whatever that measures to.

No need for packers so arguably better?

Good point, I just presumed they were first floor joists so height was fixed. If ground floor then I'd notch something bigger.

Alternatively, you could rip down a 125mm to exactly what you need.

Alternatively, you could rip down a 125mm to exactly what you need.

Some sellers (diy places) quote the finished size after planing. Check the selco small print for the finished size, it's the same. You probably won't be able to exactly match the size off the shelf. You'll probably need to use packers to sit the joists at the correct height and fix a batten to...

Some sellers quote the finished size after planing. Check the selco small print for the finished size, it's the same. You probably won't be able to exactly match the size off the shelf. You'll probably need to use packers to sit the joists at the correct height and fix a batten to the side to...

Same thing? Don't know where you live, and not where i would buy from but... https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Treated-Kiln-Dried-C16-Timber---45-x-95-x-3000-mm/p/190166 I'd still try and get something wider, c24, and/or double up if you're pushing the span. Any timber place should have this.

I was just going to post https://www.selcobw.com/products/timber-mdf-sheet-materials/treated-timber/sawn-treated-easi-edge-100mm-x-47mm-4-x-2-kiln-dried-c16-2-4m-fscr but see you found it! You want treated timber for joists anyway.

The tables give you about 2m depending on spacing. I'd try and get c24 in something a bit wider, or failing that maybe double them up.

100mm is small for a floor joist, whats the span?

You need to fix the top brackets to something even if it's some strong stud work. I wouldn't omit them. I've just fitted a grohe frame and it's the top brackets that also provide the fine adjustment to get the frame plumb.