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anotherbgeng: wrote so installation and service guys are devoid of tech ability :lol: email me i have some questions :wink:

have i still got a job? :oops:

It's upto u to decide on a competant engineer and the cheapest is not allways the best! If you trust someone and they have a good name and have been recommended by people you trust then you cant put a price on that, if you want cheap you ,may well get cheap, but cheap doesnt allways mean not...

Thats what you want from your star apprentice though :wink: ............and I cant fall through the ceiling of the internet either :lol:

New Laws?

regulation R.24, hence filling loops that are stated as being an R24 filling loop conform to the regs but they also have to be disconnected from the mains to conform to other aspects of the regulation (backflow) Kev is learning :wink:

put a new filling loop on (as it may be 'letting by' ) alternativly cap the end of the filling loop that connects to the cold mains, either way remove the loop, if the pressure still rises when cold (boiler not in use) then you may have a split DHW heat exchanger. Check for this by isolating...

isolate and drain the boiler ....yes I am an apprentice though :wink:

no prob - i'll keep you informed on any other info i find

can you use a multimeter to test the 240v supply? if not best learn about the domestic supply first before tackling the electronics side! There are plenty of how to use a multimeter books and also there are some places that do 5 day fault finding courses on boilers with a lot of...

essexi- I'm in the same boat as you - i'm beginning to learn about boiler electronics - sort off :? I think the best way is to buy an electronics for beginners type book and learn about the components etc. I think for general boiler diagonstics you dont have to know your electronics...

we (the company) always install the Danfoss Ras-C/D's TRV's- and they seem to work a treat. I've always had a theory that wax capsule types are not as good as the liquid type - is this in my mind or actually a fact?

we (the company) always install the Dabfoss Ras-C/d's TRV's- and they seem to work a treat. I've always had a theory that wax capsule types are not as good as the liquid type - is this in my mind or actually a fact? BTW - if its a new boiler etc Mr ponder did they install an Auto or manual...

right my theory about the vent pipe is rubbish, as i've just remembered that you can have a combined feed and vent pipe and the system will works as it should. i give up :lol:

edited above post. Softus its getting late (for me). please dont tell me i've made another mistake on this post as well :(

No - it was meant to be a contribution to the OP's prob - but i just read it back (my post) and yes its not very well worded is it :oops: what i'm saying is that the TRV's could be the prob regardless of their bi or omini directionalitity (nice word bster :wink: )

I dont know much but if the vent pipe was blocked would this cause the problem as the water would be sucked from the tank by the pump returning once the pump has stopped. (worth a guess, an educated gues i might add :wink: ).

Is the system overpressurising whilst left over night or whilst CH is on and thus causing the PRV to open?

Further more, I have found that my TRV's although bi directional make a whistling noise as they are closing down (this is gradual as they dont snap shut) if i turn them up or take the heads off thee noise stops due to the reduction of the rtestriction of a half open valve. BTW - My TRV's...

good luck and make sure that youve got a 3 amp fuse on the supply to the central heating system wiring :wink: .