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................whos doin the pipe sizing right and ensuring the safety of the customer. :wink:

I work it out by like this .......... pressure loss is calculated (assuming a 1mb permissable drop) by dividing 1 (mb) by the number of sections to the appliance, in this case lets assume 2, that means that 1divided by 2= .5 This figure is then X by the length of that section (say 20m) this...

no -officially, yes - if you heat it up! I wouldnt though (maybe for a slight curve) use proper fittings instead...proper job!

Kev: wrote where you talking to me :?

Or put simply ...dont forget the permissable drop allowed from the meter to the inlet of a gas appliance AND the equiv length due to fitting\bend restrictions. 2 different calculations mate.

attach a hosepipe by way of fittings (not holding it on) and block the other end of radiator (i use my foot!) this will build up the pressure..then hit the radiator with a rubber mallet then release foot, repeat this a couple of times till the water runs clear, also flip rad for the ultimate...

also.........dont forget the allowed installation pressure drop that must be divided and converted to an equivalent length!

everyone knows something but nobody knows everything, i think, I'm confused know or is that now :oops: ps - edited my last post :wink:

nobody knows everything but being able to understand the regulations and interpret the terminolgy requires a specfic knowledge that some people may have and some people may not have. A Judge does not know every law off the top of their head but he can referance AND UNDERSTAND the relevance and...

.........so going by the unwritten rule i will abstain from giving any advice (as it could result in a dangerous situ more than likely because im still a newbie and not because your not an RGI but probably both :D) ...no hard feelings :wink:

are you an RGI?

ammended............(no not your fly buy night, it'll be ok with some MDF, paint and plastic pipe type)

identify the 22mm (maybe bigger) pipe from bottom of big cold tank that enters the bottom of the cylinder, this is the hot water cylinder feed and there should be a valve on it turn this and it will isolate your hot water to the taps........hopefully! and you are looking for something like...

i think he is :wink:

So it was a Thorn boiler but a Worcester Bosch designed unit? Cant remember why he wanted tech help - the system was powerflushed and the heating wasnt working - mentioned an inaccessible diverter valve blah blah blah....... :D .

Engineer in work the other day went to sort an old and battered WB hiflow\heatslave thing out and had to ring WB tech help, he gave them the GC number and they responded that it wasnt a WB GC number, the engineer then told them it is a WB theres a great big Worcester badge on the front cover...

make sure its a 'double dumper' as the single dump Kamco i used the other day would not flush the rads proper due to one way TRVS. had to do a manual drain!

If it looks like this http://www.h-i-e.co.uk/acatalog/zone.jpg then id the one that is positioned on the pipe before it enters the hot water cylinder and turn hot water only on. does the boiler stay alight? does the pipe that runs between the valve and cylinder get hot (alot hotter...

do you have any 2 port or a 3 port valve\s? Does your heating work alright?

......also glue the overflow pipe connections together so they dont leak again :wink: (if they are in fact the cause of the leak)