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This video might explain how I would use DORI for the type of image I want to see and at what distance away from where the camera is mounted. Light is important wrt to colour and clarity both day and night. Darkfighter technology for example utilises low light conditions to get a colour...

I think if you need to ask the questions you have you should think twice about installing it yourself. send me a pm and can I will get back to you to discuss things

your friend is familiar with your property. in terms of suitability it depends on what you want it to do. Cameras should be specified for the job they need to do. That may result in the same camera for all locations or vastly each one with a completely different specification.

If the fuses are okay and the panel appears dead your going to need to look for failed components. glass fuses needs at least one end removing from the holder to check continuity across the fuse only.

You might want to check your insurance and if you’re going to be covered if you change things out yourself.

Don’t do fire. You might want to check your insurance and if you’re going to be covered if you change things out yourself. You can find almost anything online.

I can’t see it being an issue, the distance is close. If it becomes an issue you can fit a filter

You should follow the general guidance on this. in how close the wires should be. If you have screened cable it becomes less of an issue, if setup correctly. It will only affect the sensor as such when the extractor fan is drawing power if at all. Domestic Extractor fans are low in power, so...

I would check the app settings and your phone settings in the first instance. not familiar with the app so cant say more than that. Is the app supplied by the manufacturer or a generic one you downloaded and set up? Is this a new setup or an old one that used to work?

Look at the manuals of the panel and of the sounder. No idea how this connects up so without manuals specifications of the yell sounder I don’t think your going to get much further.

the manual should tell you what you need to find something that is compatible, i see there is a cable, but dont know what communication method is for the device, thought Yales were pretty much wireless.

Don’t do Yale, you saying the Yale supports an extension siren, don’t Yale do one specifically?

We have locked some panels but the boy with the customers consent. Especially with rented properties. You are supposed to have customers consent has always been my understanding.

Panels are obsolete you may get some new old stock units knocking about if you want to keep it the same as your used to.

i would check the board for signs of damage, it’s a little low. Might be repairable however if you can’t do that yourself then it’s probably not worth getting someone to repair for you. Not sure if you would get away with a new battery, you might.

The battery leads coming out of the panel test at ?

i would disconnect the battery and see if things improve. I would also check the pcb for component failure burn marks which can occur. Multiple threads on here with pictures to help guide you.

So dip 2 and is N1,E2 not N1 E1

Is there any other expanders on the system. I would set 32XP-W on a 48 to address 1 and you start wireless zones at zone 9, as address 2 you start wireless zones at address 17

4321 is the default user code which is crazy to be using but that’s a separate issue. The unit has to be either faulty or grossley misprogrammed. Out of interest what zone was shown as activating the alarm. It’s common for people to do 1234 prog 1234 prog and set zone 2 to a fire zone which...