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It might reduce a small amount of bounce on the boards that exactly align with the noggins. I guess the complete answer is that you don't need to install them, but if you have the time and the timber spare, there is no harm in over-engineering it :)

Assuming you are laying the boards perpendicular to the joists (so left to right in your picture) then there is no need for noggins, the deck boards will secure the whole thing together.

Sorted. Thanks for the advice.

So do you drill the hole 1mm bigger than the dowel to account for the glue? Or drill the same diameter and sand the dowel until it's a good fit?

OK thanks, so I think doweling is the way to go. I assume the technique is to drill the hole the same diameter as the dowel and smash it in with a lump hammer? :-D

The design is, as most things are now a days, on the whim of the girlfriend’s browsing of Pinterest. “Make it look like this” was the work instruction.

So I found this nice old piece of oak I want to use for a mantlepiece but because it wasn’t that deep I needed to mount it directly flat to the fireplace carcass to not lose any depth. I have butted two pieces of 3x2 C16 to the back of it with 10 Big Ass Screws to a decent depth (see pics) to...

Cool. I assume this is just a normal occasional use deck? Those shims aren't strictly designed to be load bearing, but they will be fine if they are spread around evenly at 60 cm intervals. The screws are fine.

I don't think that is too much. I have a pack of Broadfix shims that I use for jobs like this and it would only be a couple of the thicker ones. https://www.screwfix.com/p/broadfix-assorted-plastic-shims-medium-200-pcs/80408 Just level it up at each corner, anchor to the concrete through the...

What's the largest difference in level between one corner of the deck to the other? Are we talking millimeters or 10s of centimeters? If you want to to keep the deck as low as possible to the ground, there is no reason not to just use plastic spacers. There are spacers between my bricks and...

My deck uses 3x2 C16 but that is why I have put so many supports. You don't want to span more than ~70cm unsupported with 3x2 joists otherwise they may start to flex under load. My spacings were 60cm centers on the supports (what the joists sit on) and 50cm centers on the joists (what the...

I'm not a huge fan of using wooden 'legs' as they become a single point of failure for the deck as they are more prone to rot faster due to exposure to ground water. The last deck I built I set engineering bricks into Postcrete beds (with the correct run-off angle) to act as the supports, then...

Hi all, I've just built a built-in storage unit and finished the faces in MDF board. I'd like to fill the small gaps between the boards before finishing - with the intent to get the look of a completely smooth unit with no visible joins between the panels. What filler would you use for this...

Does anyone have any bright ideas for cutting this metal C section flush with the wall without damaging the plaster around it?? I used tin snips up the sides but can’t get the angle to cut the top.

Interesting. I wonder how many other socket testers are similarly affected. I have noticed that a lot of them seem to be the same basic products re-badged for different tester brands. e.g.

folks, I need a replacement strainer/plug for my sink. It’s a standard size 78mm one but unlike any I can find available it has an adjustable ‘leg’ so that it can extend to engage with the sink mechanism, to allow the up/down action from a button on the top of the sink. Has anyone seen these...

Then you're golden :)

The very same.

And of course... Pinterest makes a great cheap substitute for a real designer :) https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/1970393567621246/

There is a free tool called SweetHome3D which will allow you to do some fairly advanced lighting design rendering. It takes a bit of work to get up and running, as the detailed ray-tracing to get proper lighting is not a defualt feature of the app and requires some open source tools, but it can...