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Not a good example to suggest, that takes me to at TLC

I never understood why the main switch started being placed on the left when they had always been on the right.

I used to fit MK or Crabtree accessories in my rental properties but having to replace bits so often I started with LAP and BG products, realistically I've only had one failure since (and even that I suspect was caused by using a heavy ceramic 'handle' on a cord switch) although several have...

Is damp proof cable one that has a hole drilled every 6" and filled with silicon fluid like they do on old houses?

Not something I've noticed, makes me think it may be over tightening

When I use them in theatrical situations I often use a 400Hz tone into an amplifier and connect them in place of the loudspeakers, turning the volume down dims them really nicely, most of mine are 31V and the 'off' voltage is aroung 25V.

I have such lights in place at the moment in local halls which accounts for around 30 sets from 200 to 1000 and never given a thought to the warmth generated my big bugbear with some of them now is they don't remember the last setting.

Oh good, reading this I was concerned no one would make this observation: These original powersupplies do run warm, I have something like 50 of them in various sizes, to date I've been happy (Lucky??) as I've had only one fail but it had been used on a much bigger set than designed for.

Good heavens, this thead has just appeared in the list the bottom (during a search for something along similar lines) and the instant thing I thought of was https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/a-real-moan-tonight.552183/ in particular post#2 which John so clearly predicted 9 months before with

Oh I hadn't noticed it was 15 years old. Quite honestly though I do sometimes wonder why has OP described that fairly normal progression as a mess. I see worse and don't always instantly class them as a mess unless they are, such as:

This is the reason I limit my lights to strings of 1000 maximumMerry Christmas.

you have 2 sets of lights: one is 3000 lights and a total of 12W of power or 0.004W per light t'other is 1500 lights and a total of 12W of power or 0.008W per light Do you expect a 0.004W light to be as bright as a 0.008W light?

Rewirable cutout fuses were not a lot different to those ceramic units and I've always regretted losing a cast iron unit during clearing up after a job, my first house had something similar, (courtesy of JW YT) which I was given permission to do temporaries prior to timber and damp treatment...

That looks like the right one

I've seen a lot worse.

Why has no one asked what the red and black wires are?

AFAIC Diagram 3 is a load of tish and a pointless thing to do. Failure of the right hand switch (I find these have a higher failure rate than standard switches) could prevent the whole system working but Diagram 2 (the only normal way AFAIC) doesn't. And this? Can anyone think of a sensible...

We had a unit like this to dispose of and reckon these are the same images we saw then, they would not accept ours. Simple statement It is of course possible stock pics are being used.

I looked on there a 2 years ago when FIL passed, most of those where listed then, including the several with duplicate listings so I don't think they sell too many, we had a unit the same as the that listed at £1029, £881 - looks like standing above the inspection pit - and possibly £708 and...

The copper part of our FTTC was laid in 1965 so 60 years and I have no doubts a lot much older still exists in the network.