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Back off with the insults 1john - not necessary and uncalled for. I took on board the reasoned arguments that electronicsuk and taylor2c both put in a polite way and decided to leave them with the last word.

WRONG! 16A => 3.5kw 3.5kw + 8kw = 11.5kw => 50A He only has 6mm cable and do not know the reference method. And try applying diversity on xmas day when oven and hob are in full use. I'll leave you to do the sums for how many amps can be drawn in a 8kw appliance. And how do you...

Can only think then that there was previously some issue with the DNO's earth and previous installer just whacked a rod in to save the hassle of dealing with an unresponsive DNO. Have you asked the owner for certs/info about the last installation? Not quite sure what you mean by wrong side of...

Err....Huh? How else is he supposed to control when the boiler goes on? Everything else in your post I agree with.

YES I can not believe that the other responders are trying to help you. This MUST be done under part P. You need a suitably qualified electrician to do it for you. I know it is going to cost you to do this, but this sort of scenario is exactly what Part P (like it or not) was introduced for.

Has the property always been TNS? Perhaps it previously needed to be TT and the DNO upgraded their supply after the install.

I would have thought usually mains voltage. But you need to tell us make and model of the boiler AND the programmer AND the room thermostat AND the zone valve(s) you intend to use.

BS7671 regulation 132.12 Electrical equipment shall be arranged so as to afford as may be necessary: (i)... (ii) accessibility for operation, inspection, testing, fault detection, maintenance and repair Hiding a JB behind a light fitting does not satisfy this regulation.

I did notice that the part number was wrong. I got that wrong part number from the Honeywell downloads site. There are three documents on there, the 'reference' document gives this incorrect part number. Have already informed them of the error. As regards replacing the ball, it looks to me...

Just phoned Honeywell technical support on 08457 678999 and they confirmed the valve internals are the same so I can go ahead and fit the valve top from the 22mm into the 28mm. Next stop is to part drain the system and do the replacement. Valve is upstairs about 2ft off the floor. Advice...

Are you familiar with Honeywell valves? They are designed to be stripped in situ. comments like these are uncalled for. For the record, my income thus far this tax year is £1500 and I have a wife and four kids. Thankyou for politely pointing this out. I do understand how this system...

Because a new valve costs best part of £100 and I don't like undoing plumbing connections unless really necessary - I am an electrician, not a plumber. So will the plate and ball from the 22mm valve fit in the 28mm valve?

Y plan system incorporating 28mm V4073A is heating up radiators when CH is off. Have tested actuator and even tried replacing it - same problem. So suspect ball not closing off CH port properly. Honeywell state there is a spare part ball and o-ring part number 272752A/U CARD but I cannot find...

How do you know when the water level is below the element? Do you knock on the side of the tank to find where the level is? How long does it typically take to drain half a tank?

So white and grey are inputs to control the valve, and orange is the output to fire up the boiler. And any readings on my digital meter less than 240v are effectively zero. Understood. With HW only, you say orange is 240v, white and grey are 0v, so what feeds the 240v to the orange? Or is the...

Been back today for another look. The valve does actually move into three positions B, A+B, A Turned off power at fused spur. Ensured valve at B. Turned on power CHoff HWoff Wh=0.1v Gy=250v Or=0.1v valve=B (Now you said Orange should be 100v but it definitely was 0.1v) CHoff HWon...

have done a bit more research - seems to point to ball valve needs replacing. Honeywell part no 40003918-007 because hot water is leaking into the heating system. Does not explain the buzzing noise though. Before I do this, can anyone confirm how much movement there should be in the valve...

Mid port valve Honeywell V4073A. With heating off and water on (at the programmer) getting both hot water AND heating on (radiators are getting hot). Took cover off valve and tried different settings. With fused switch off (cutting power to this part of electrical circuit) the valve moves...