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If you can get a 75% RH reading with a flooring moisture tester, be it a protometer or ideally a hydrometer box, you are good to go and screed/lay. If the screed that is down is moisture tolerant, you could consider applying a liquid DPM over the floor, something like F-Ball F77 and then final...

The fitter will either raise the bars on strips of ply or may use Stairrods UK Easy Shims (the same supplier of the Premier Double 9 Bars. You wont find a better bar than a Premier Double 9, especially in Black, the cheap Black bars mark and scratch very easily, the black finish on the...

You need to test the moisture with a protimeter or preferably a hydrometer box. What do you plan to lay flooring wise in that space?

Glue down is better in all applications but if you already have the Palio you may as well use it. Click LVP has an awful reputation for failure in the trade.

F-Ball 1200 or Arditex Ardit NA can both be laid over ceramics with no primer as long as they are clean, it’s best to lay two applications rather than trying to level with one thick application. By the time you have done that, you would be better off laying Karndean Glue Down on high temp...

That will work too.

Yes that should be fine. The best laminate floor underlay is Timbermate XL

We have replaced many, many LVP floors the past few years including a 5 plot luxury home development. You only have to do a search on any floor fitting forum to see the issues attributed to LVP. Not only do subfloors HAVE to be prepared the same as Glue Down LVT, you also have to be very...

Floor layer is the correct trade, sounds like you'll want to strip back as suggested, Liquid DPM to subfloor and screed on that. Personally I would avoid LVP, Glue Down LVT is much the superior product and you'll need to prep to the same specification whichever product you choose.

Save yourself a load of heartbreak and replace with Laminate again. Click LVP is notorious for failing even when subfloors are fully screeded and level, the joints are so thin they are susceptible to breaking easily.

Glue it down with plenty of Grip Fill in the channel so you get good adhesion/coverage but allow expansion, weight it down for 48 Hours and it should hold to shape.

Have a look at Stairrods UK for their premier profiles, they do a low height version.

This is appalling Google AI advice. Speak to Woodpecker, go by Woodpeckers advice and guidelines for their product. Look at their install instructions. But we have already been through all this hav'nt we?

Just in every way it’s a bad idea!

Until it expands due to humidity/moisture.

Take it up and Rennovation Coat self levelling screed the ply for a flatter, less undulating subfloor then refit.

For laying carpet, a DPM is a bit OTT. However if you do DPM sandwich, just glue the gripper and door bars with Flexy-Fix and it will be hard enough to stretch to in an hour or less.

Engineered wood flooring is not a Structural floor, you would need floorboards/Composition boarding over the joists before the Engineered Wood could be installed as a 'finishing' floor surface.

If you try and kick that back into the bar, use plenty of spray contact adhesive first to glue the underlay to the floor and to help the carpet grip the top of the underlay. Or use a wider profile, perhaps a piece of scrap oak, or you can buy a profile from Treadplates UK to butt against the...

If you have the skills to face the exposed area with thin boarding/mdf etc you could then fill and paint which may be easier than trying to sand and fill the area as it is at present?