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To deal with what you have exposed, my advice is solid and will encapsulate the floor indefinitely. Your health issues, you’d need to speak to a professional, but if you have damp etc then my advice as to how to treat the sub floor you have exposed still stands.

Self levelling screed coat over that floor with Ardit NA or F-Ball 1200, then apply a liquid DPM either Ardit or F-Ball F77 and then finish with a final screed coat of Ardit NA or F-Ball 1200. That will encapsulate the floor and permanently stop any moisture coming through as long as you don't...

Have a Look at Staiirods UK profiles, they do specific laminate step profiles that are vvery nice and subtle

You won't be able to tell by looking at the area, you need to test the floor with a protimeter or ideally a Hydrometer Box to be sure. Obviously going with a screed/dpm/secreed sandwich negates the testing entirely.

If you have an Engineered wood floor you could glue this to the top of the DPM if the floor is level enough and save the cost of the second Self Levelling Screed area. If you plan to float the Wood or plan on carpets then you'll need the second Screed Coat. Remember to stick and NOT pin the...

Do you plan to lay a floor on top, or just walk on the Screed? The simplest way to tackle the area is to Uplift all floorcoverings and tiles Apply Ardit NA Apply painted DPC Apply final coat Ardit NA Only issues with the above is that the Ardit NA is not a finished floor surface so will wear...

Technically you don't need SP101 but personally from experience it's a big risk that's probably not worth the relative extra cost. The biggest issue you have is speccing click LVT, it's a nightmare, even with the 'right' subfloor prep. We have had jobs fail on perfect subfloors due to the...

Back Fill to level, Apply Liquid DPM - something like F-Ball F77 and then self levelling screed over the DPM. Floor will 'breathe' through walls but should'nt be an issue so long as no excessive heavy damp issue and floor is 'breathing' it out (no leaks)

Yup that'll be fine to screed over.

You'll need to: Uplift old Parquet Blocks Screed subfloor with a self leveller like Ardex NA or F-Ball 1200 Apply Liquid DPM such as Ardex DPC or F-Ball F77 Screed over Liquid DPM with appropriate self levelling screed and primer (if screed requires) Then you'll be able to fit your LVT Go...

How much do you need? Jewsons sell a 5.5mm Flooring Grade ply which will be fine as you are using a finishing coat screed over the top.

Mercardo Wirral are worth a call and see if they will sell direct.

Where abouts in the UK are you?

Most Engineered Herringbone has to be direct stuck and can't be floated on an underlay so you would need a 10mm Screed over the UFH

Renovation over the top should be ok.

If the floor has not moved thus far, it's probably a case of leaving it and see what happens. I'd have expected it to have moved/buckled quite quickly but as it has not, you may get away with it as it's a floated installation. I don't doubt a stuck down installation would have blown within a...

Yup that’s the best thing. Don’t caulk anything. Prime before the final screed coat will be screw specific, check the recommendations but the better screeds possibly won’t need priming.

It’s on the limit of the spec but should be ok, use mapei renovation for the final all over screen coat though.

Too much movement, too many different floor surfaces and it’s never advisable to screed over chipboard.

Unfortunately you’ll risk the SL not having the structural rigidity at that depth. Usually you can bulk with chippings with alot of products ok and that will bind the mix together.