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You've done very well to have a perfect Ravenheat for 10 years! That's got to be a record. You may well have a split hot water diaphragm and the diverter valve may also be passing to the rads. You can replaced the whole valve...

Take the link out and wire it to terminals 1 and 3 of the receiver back plate (doesn't mater which way around you put them) Take the permanent live from ST12, it doesn't matter whether you take the neutral from ST12 or ST8. 4 wires all together, no need to earth the back plate.

What kind of system do you have? Y-plan, S-plan? open vented or sealed system? You may have a blockage around the feed/vent which will give you this problem, plus it will be pumping-over and pulling in aerated water which is why your rad needs bleeding all the time. If all this is jargon...

You're thinking too much!

Yea something doesn't seem quite right... OP, can you get hot water on it's own if you turn the thermostat right down?

Please tell me I'm NOT going insane :D :shock:

The second sentence on this thread.

I know the benefits of non-return valves but they shouldn't be needed anywhere on a fully pumped system. Being 28mm pipework you will have a very good flow rate and probably get away with pump speed on 1. How many radiators do you have? What's the heat input of the boiler? (sorry if this...

There shouldn't be any non-return valves anywhere, don't do that. Try turning the pump speed down and possibly piping it like the diagram I posted.

This all depends on how much effort/money you want to throw at the problem. The ideal solution would be to seal the system completely, what boiler do you have?

There's already a thermostat so it can be done how I describe above, can't it? I mean with a hard wired programmable stat, not a wireless one.

WTF :shock: I must be missing something here... The 103 IS suitable! It turns on the heating and water at the same time, it doesn't control the pump, that'll be the job of the 2 or 3 port valve/s or the boiler (not sure if it has a pump overrun) The 937 is NOT suitable as a direct...

What shower have you got? You might need to fit a shower pump.

Something is wrong here! How many temperature control knobs are on your boiler? Do you have on for the heating and one for the hot water?

Try combining it like this

Yea, I put a link to it above.

You'll fine the electrics a piece of P*** then mate. That integral timer will have 4 wires to it, L-N and the switch. Doubt it'll be earthed. You can either get a time switch (any single channel timer will do) and wire it to those wires, or... Make the L-N safe and link the switch. Then...

The integral clock is now broke. But I guess you already knew that! It's highly unlikely that it can be repaired so It'll need to be replaced. You don't have to get a like-for-like clock, an external timer or programmable room stat will do. The knackered clock can be bypassed for the time...

He's saying there is power to the gas valve which would only come from the Y or S plan valves. It could be gravity though, possibly a C plan.