Try turning the cylinder stat down, it looks too high. 50c or less... as low as you can get away with.
Also, turning up the pump speed will help. It looks like it's on 1?? Try 2 or maybe 3.
Gas pressure checks need to be carried out but we can't advise on those. You should get your cousin or uncle to do them, if they are qualified, or get an RGI in. I wouldn't spend any money on parts until this is done. Plus, you can't change the gas valve yourself.
If you're confident you're getting 24vdc across the two black wires at the modureg then change the PCB.
Make sure you fit the heating and hot water temp control knobs in the correct orientation.
Tip: Run the hot water with the boiler off to make sure it's cold, turn the boiler on to be...
Why go from 22 to 28 to 22 to 28mm?
This could be normal operation, check with S codes just in case and give glowworm a ring.
You might want to try these when you upgrade...
http://www.glow-worm.co.uk/products/controls/climaprosub2-sub-rf/...
It looks at flow / return temps and the differential to decide, but I'm not sure what the parameters are and why it decides to do what it does.
What's your pipe sizing like? how big is the house?
OP.
It's designed to sit at low rate for up to 5 minutes depending on load so either water isn't getting away quick enough or it's an electronics issue. Might be worth ringing Glowworm before you fit anything.
(Thanks to Harold5 in the CC)
What boiler is it? Looks like an Icos or Isar to me. If it is you can remove the bottom panel and you should be able to see more of the pipe and better have better access.
It's 21.5mm pipe and internal condense runs are prefered, any size pipe will freeze if it's outside. Looking at the...
You may have had an underlying issue before it was flushed (other than sludge) A pump problem maybe? As already said, you may have dislodged a large piece of magnetite that could be lodged in the impeller or somewhere else.
Cast iron rads with top to bottom pipework is screaming one pipe...