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You might want to take a look here, mate. http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=114690 Being retired you probs don't need much tech help but there's some decent banter.

Sounds like it could be a one pipe system.

If there is NO circulation at all then a a Powerflush machine won't touch it anyway. It doesn't pump at any higher pressure than the boiler will, just a higher flow rate. It needs locating and cutting out.

Yea you're right. Pressure and flow are two different things. If you open a rad valve into a bucket you will have 2bar into atmospheric pressure, in your heating system you have 2bar either side of the blockage.

You have a blockage somewhere but I guess you already knew that. Is it plastic pipe or copper? Remember that there is a difference between pressure in your system and circulation. A blockage can cause poor circulation but it doesn't affect the pressure in the system. So when you open a...

Providing the boilers pump is on the return, best check the manual but it probably is.

Those btus are for the hot water so forget them (assuming it's a combi?) How many rads do you have? Chances are a 12 litre vessel will do. Even that is probably bigger than the one in your boiler.

The lower the better, bearing in mind you need to be warm!

It's the diaphragm. I think this is the one... http://www.allsparesdirect.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=31_199&products_id=3493 But check before you buy it. It doesn't have a plate heat exchanger, I'm pretty sure it's a duel-pass/flow. It's warm initially because it's...

In my opinion (and there are lots of others) I'd have a nice new combi fitted, bearing in mind an average combi will supply one hot outlet at a time, comfortably. Plus you'd need to check your cold mains flow/pressure first. You could also have a direct replacement for your current boiler...

If you're set on changing all the rads you might want to consider oversizing them a little so you can run them at lower temperatures, making the boiler more efficient.

Alternatively, go for a British Gas fixed price repair, it was £189 last time I looked. It's priced per fault so even if they replace something and the same thing happens again within a year they won't charge you again. There is a divide in our trade between those that install and those that...

Has a plumber/heating engineer actually looked at the fault, done any checks or tests?

Have it come on 30 minutes before the heating to give full boiler power to the cylinder, then when the heating comes on it only needs to top-up the hot water as and when required. Depending on the size of your cylinder, how many radiators you have etc... your boiler may not be up to the job...

Hot water doesn't take priority over heating unless it's wired up in such a way and usually uses a diverter valve, not mid position valve. You've most likely got a standard non-priority Y-plan as it's much more common. Best set your hot water to come on 30 minutes or so before the heating.

That can't be right, it doesn't have a flue temp sensor. It's something along those lines though, at least it's sorted.

FYI... I've had these boilers (only the lower capacity ones) have problems with F22 a few times, turns out ignition problems can cause this because they are really sensitive to flow/return temperature differential issues. Had one recently with explosive ignition and F22, changed electrode...

Same size but different piping arrangement.