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@ericmark The main difference in behaviour I observed when I turned on Opentherm was that the boiler would fire up at a lower temperature when close to the set point, and also appears to run the pump longer/instead of firing. I think this would save some energy vs. just modulating based on...

You'd think so. However Drayton says: https://schneider-electric.zendesk.com/hc/en-gb/articles/360014449877-How-to-connect-the-OpenTherm-Module So I think it does need a chat with support to find out what the deal is. Might be a software thing.

Not sure whether you can use Opentherm with Kit 2. I would give Drayton support a call. Maybe they'd be willing to do a swap, or maybe it'll work just fine with a Combi if you plug the Opentherm interface in. Assuming it's either supported or you've swapped to Kit 1, yes, to support Opentherm...

OP says it's kit 1, which is single channel and correct for a Combi. @DDew you've just got a Setup button and a Heating button on the front, right?

I'm going to go out on a limb and say it's not working with Wiser based on that photo, unless there's a new "wireless" mode I don't know about! Needs the L&N to power the hub (already in place) and for OP's benefit either the 1&3 terminals (relay switching) or 2-core to the Opentherm module -...

You could see water condensing from the warm air when it hits the cold air - same way a cold window fogs up when you breathe on it. See attached chart. 99% relative humidity at 5 degrees would be barely 40% relative humidity at 20 degrees. It's the same amount of water in the air by volume, but...

Sounds like your main decision is whether to treat the lounges as one room or not. If you treat them as one room, the valves will all actuate together (as far as I can see, anyway). You can use a room stat if the TRVs aren't doing a good enough job measuring, but you could also just offset the...

I've seen that video, but I see it as more food for thought than a blanket rule. Example: If you have a set of interconnected rooms that you want at basically the same temp, you might consider setting them up in Wiser as a single room. Wiser will average the temps, but any call for heat will...

Like @Notch7 says, it should help reduce temperature swings, but I'm not sure how much warmer it'll make it unless you compromise the floor insulation. Cold air can hold less moisture than warm air, and the PIR and tape will make it hard for any moisture to escape, so unless you have a...

I used that one successfully with a WB Greenstar 30i, together with Drayton Wiser. However I've seen a couple of people try it recently and say that it didn't work for them with WB boilers of a similar age, and I've also heard people saying it doesn't work with the latest WB boilers. So I'm...

Skipping forward to when you've introduced the extra PIR: What temperature are you aiming for inside the space? How will you heat it?

The Manthorpe vents are as good as any, I believe: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vents-Prevents-Condensation-Attic-Ventilation/dp/B00M97O5YY I suggest putting at least one between each pair of rafters. I have installed one row during the cold snap, and I think I'll go on and do a second row since...

It doesn't _look_ breathable to me. Lap vents are quick and easy to fit yourself, so definitely worth trying. I'm in a similar position. I fitted extra insulation, and then during the cold snap found quite serious condensation - albeit judging by water stains I think this had been an ongoing...

Yes, I think that would be a good idea if you're getting condensation. You could also add Manthorpe felt lap vents. Is your felt breathable, or is it the bituminous type? Also check whether there are any obvious ways that moist air could be entering: Is your loft hatch airtight? If not...

How do you even approach that with the builder, assuming it's still under warranty? If the builder stops communicating, as with the OP, what do you do next? Is there any sort of body who will give an impartial assessment of the quality of the build? Do you sue the builder?

My non-expert opinion, if I've visualized this correctly as a cold roof: If the downlighters are penetrating the plasterboard, then it isn't going to be a useful vapour control layer. I don't think the rockwool will be an effective VCL. You'll have cold surfaces up there such as the rafters...

Yes, I'd noticed there's a bigger offset than I'd expected. For example my Kitchen is supposedly 17.5 right now but it's actually 15.9. Front Bedroom claims 17.9 but is actually 17.0 with a cold rad. Could be a firmware change as you suggest, or maybe it's just struggling to factor in the...

I laid another 200mm down a few months ago, and I think it cost me £100 and a long evening. Well worth doing.

wfm

It does probably help to combine TRVs from adjacent rooms to make bigger zones. I have all my downstairs TRVs linked together since I leave all the doors open. This means you've got more radiator surface area to effect heat changes more quickly, which should mean the boiler generally doesn't...