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Do that vent test with the container for a few hours including the cool down period, if nothing strange, suggest c/o the circ pump to PP III for a day or two.

That shower is only quoted in two outputs 7.5& 6.9kW @ 230V, very puny, suggest going at least for the equivalent to the T80Z here, 9.0kW at 230V, will cost a few bob more, you may be able to get budget price Tritons in the UK at 9kW or higher but seem to be more problematic than the "dearer"...

Agree there shouldn't be any AAVs on a OV system, maybe thumb screw vents at best/worst, mine is 50+ years old with some rads over 40 years old, also oil fired with a 20 year old Firebird but then I have the RR of systems with a combined Vent and cold feed from day one!. If not via the AAV then...

Very good, thanks, so all 4 connections are used on the boiler, should be OK then as long as no blockage or partially blockage where the cold enters the boiler.

The pipes above are the boiler flow (top) and return (bottom), the vent will be teed off this somewhere like below and the cold feed is teed in generally just after it but may be teed into the return on some systems. The system below is called a close coupled system.

The cold feed (and vent)I'm referring to to is where the (cold) feed is teed into the system, a fairly commonn arrangement is where, from the boiler you have the vent then the cold feed (no more than 150mm apart) and then the pump, see if yours is like this, I would still look into the feed &...

Those lengths are relativel short. If you assume 15mm pipe has a ID of 12mm and assuming no change and using 3.5+1.5, 5M then the pressure loss at 25LPM is 0.69bar. If the 3.5M is changed from 15mm to 22mm and assuming the 22mm has a ID of 19mm then the pressure loss (at 25LPM) is 0.259bar...

Might be safer to change the whole actuator (without valve body) instead of just the motor?

What, roughly, is the total length of 15MM pipe to the T that you are proposing to change to 22mm and what are the 15mm lengths of the cold water supply and the combi supply, after the split?

Assuming you are not heating the cylinder while on holidays and the cylinder stat is always calling, then you can just programme the HW to come on briefly after finishing with CH overnight?, the actuator requires a HW programmed request + the cylinder stat not satisfied plus CH programmed off...

Get someone to start and stop the boiler while you watch the vent (over the feed and expansion cistern for any spurt of water both while its starting and also just after it stops., also see if any pump over through the vent while the boiler is on. What make/model/mode/setting is the circ pump...

Are you sure?, I thought the swirl chamber caused the oil to spin.

OK then, the only in theory "perfect" way is to open up all the rads (TRVs etc) to give full circulation, then check what mode the pump map is on, check the actual pump speed in %, then change to mode 0, 3-d1 which is variable speed mode depending on the boiler output, no good for your ABV,but...

They work on a pretty wide voltage range from a minimum of say 11.6V up to a maximum of nearly 15.0V depending on the charging voltage which in itself can vary continuously between 13.2V and at least 14.8/14.9V, you can sometimes hear the fan speed rising and falling.

I just missed having a starting handle when I started driving, (don't forget to take your Model T out of gear before using it).

Is the Boiler you have the CDI compact combi boiler?, if so, this has a internal bypass and unless you have TRVs on all the rads I wouldn't be too worried re the ABV but you can play around with it as suggested, just start with a high index setting. This boiler outputs 32kW to DHW and 24kW to CH...

Yes, but a constant pressure setting shouldn't be used with a ABV as it depends on the pressure (head) increasing as the flow decreases which can only be achieved with a pump running at a fixed speed, option 0 is variable speed (depending on boiler output I think) but even though this can/should...

Have a look at your MIs, if you have a eCopy post it on here, your circ pump will/should have several options like the attached, you can see which one yours is set to, once you know that then its relatively easy to set up the ABV.

Do you know if your car has this energy saving smart Alternator charging?, if so, then, its very advisable to get the battery coded/adapted.

Possibly, one of the "best" bit of data above, is, IDE01843 Battery voltage at rest 12.4 V although how they calculate that without a disconnected battery is definitely pure magic! and it does show a IDE01839 Battery charge level 78 %, close to the theoretical numbers, below. Also the IDE01842...