Search results

It means that someone may have made a mistake when installing the rad and have the rad flow and return connected to either the flow or the return pipe (one pipe).

You don't say where the boiler is located but assuming its on the ground floor then I would suggest a minimum boiler pressure of 1.5bar when cold. Also, close off one (attic) rad isol valve, open the air vent and check for water flow, do this with boiler on and off, do the same with the other...

I don't know, but probably not, my battery + the other battery + the ~ 40/50A that the Alternator supplies with my engine revving to ~ 2500 RPM allways does.

Yes, I've watched that a few times with VCDS, the charging current goes up to ~ 14/18A initially but literally for well less than a minute, even only 20/30 secs or less then gradually falls back to 2/4A, you'd require a tank full of petrol driving around IMO to recharge a flat battery, far...

I've a length of 2.5mm2 coax cable with croc clamps and have started numerous cars at the airport but allways run the engine for 10 minutes or so before attempting to crank the other engine, seems to work fine. Of course the 2.5mm2 limits the amount of donar amps, better for my car but still...

Is it a sealed or open vented system.? Is it a gas or oil fired boiler? Where is the boiler located? If oil fired where is the circ pump located.? What make/model/mode/setting is the pump.? I hava a oil fired boiler on the ground floor with a 6M circ pump adjacent to it, pumping into the boiler...

It was years before that maybe around 2014 or something like that so may not have been the "2" but that sticks in my mind.

Before replacing the pump carefully note the mode and setting of your old pump and match the new one to these settings, as some open vented systems can behave very poorly with air ingress/pump over on the seemingly simple pump change out. I have exactly the same type of combined feed&vent like...

I wasn't aware of the UPS3 damaging PCBs etc but I remember that the original UPS2? was and Grundfos supplied suppressor leads FOC which presumably cured the problem. Having said that the UPS3 is a really powerful "6M" (6.4M) pump, it will still circulate 1.3m3/hr, 21.7LPM at 6.0M & 60W, almost...

I was allways a fan of the older type Grundfos but my plumbing friends tell me that the UPS3 especially and generally, all the newer type Grundfos's wouldn't now be their first choice due to relatively short lives and opt for pumps like the DAB Evosta 3, it might be a bit unfair because I...

If you have a double rad like the one shown with a air vent at (the top) on one end and a blank 15mm plug on the other end, the most economical way of adding inhibitor is to close both rad valves, open the air vent to ensure valves are tight, then slacken one of the nuts a few turns where one of...

The pumps age is on the front.....PC9913. as you said, week 13 1999.

Its served you well, time for the boneyard I think?.

You should be able I think, to remove the impeller assy. where arrowed.

Yes, why did the chicken/engineer cross the road?, who cares, the system is now working. A ABV will only work to a fashion in these A Rated pumps because as is well known, none have true fixedspeed/constantcurve modes, the UPS3 is the very "worst" one in this regard, see below. On the choosen...

Your system looks like S plan with motorized valves to the CH and HW cylinder (coil) heating so when the CH or/and HW heating demand ends then both valves close and the pump should run on for a few minutes (to cool down the boiler heat exchanger) but there must ba a path for the water to...

That's fixed speed II, 5.2M, probably OK, if you start getting any signs of air in the rads etc, change to fixed speed I, 4.2M, which should still be quite OK for your system, you just press the setting button briefly a few times until you get one green LED, as below.

Ensure that the pump is NOT running at full speed, a UPS3 is a very powerful pump and will invariably create havoc on a open vented system with air ingress, pump over etc if left running in its default/supplied full speed mode. You might care to post a photo of the LEDs while running.

Why can't you just remove the pump's centre screw and see or feel if the pump shaft is rotating?.

If your pump was working, shaft seen to be turning??, then remove the head, as suggested, post back with photos, if pump shaft wasn't/isn't rotating then go and get a new pump.