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It will, but the two electric showers would as well as they have flow stabilizing valves to allow for someone opening a cold tap somewhere so mains pressure must/ might be on the low side, the lowest pressure will then determine the flowrate from the thermostatic shower.

As long as the cold is the pumped cold

Why won't it work, it would be fed from the CWSC. Of coure not, no HW Cylinder!!!

Yes, something like a Triton Novel SR (SR=Silent Running) gives up to 14LPM, quite a few of its equivalent here around me, a excellent choice IMO.

Personally, I find it hard to imagine how that would even work. I would seal the system and wouldn't have any fears really of springing a leak if its done properly. I would install a 12L EV (expansion vessel) on the ground floor, pre filled to 0.6bar pressure and charged to 0.75bar, assuming...

You are worried about the water pressure with 3 showers in service?. Electric showers use very little water simply because the can't heat it sufficiently due to their low thermal output. Even in the summer with a mains temp of 15C, a 9.5kW shower will only require a flowrate of 5.5LPM at 40C, so...

If you think the pins are stuck down, remove the TRV head and pull on them with a pliers, then (or even if no movement) get a hammer, reverse it in your hand, and push on the pin with the end of the handle, it shoud move in/out ~ 3 to 5mm. When replacing the actuator head ensure its fully open...

I've often read of the pins sticking shut after say months off during the summer, I'm a bit surprised at this as the there is a pretty strong spring forcing them to the open position, so wonder what is actually causing them to stick shut, I've used TRV's for years and years and have never had...

Go to page 6 of my attachment, seems to say that this boiler does have warmstart

How much higher is the water level in the feed&expansion cistern above the top of the attic rad, even if only 0.25M higher then its possible that you can circulate water through that rad once you can fill it. Of course, you can raise the F&E cistern, mine was always above the CWSC which gives ~...

Well, that would point to perhaps that the E model does have preheat and its just running on that? but if so then you'd think that it would have a set point temperature. If you just opened the hot tap just a trickle, not enough even to start the boiler normally and it does start up after a...

Can't assist you there I'm afraid but it does seem to be associated with the flow required to start the boiler since you said it kicks in faster with a high(er) flow. What is this "don’t forget your 26.9 checks afterwards" from @CountryFan post #5?

I don't thik so, try just opening the hot tap just enough to get the boiler to fire up then see do you get continuous hot water just at the boile. turboMAX plus provides both central heating and domestic hot water, with the domestic hot water supplied directly from the boiler. The boiler will...

The MI's I'm looking at is a PLus 8282E but presume the 828E is the same This model (2E) has HW pre heat. Have you this switched on or inhibited?. If switched on then this might account for the initial burst of HW but wouldn't think there should be much/any delay after this If you inhibit it...

Most gas boilers fire up at up to 70% of their max output and maintain this for anything up to 60 secs before releasing the controls to modulation, once the boiler flowtemp exceeds the target (SP) temperature by, normally, 5C, then the burner stops firing and the circ pump just keeps running...

If your shower is portrait and mains water supply then a Triton T80Z Fastfit which has multiple choices for cable & water entry might suit you. Triton, in the UK, seem to offer budget price showers which don't seem to last too long but the T80Z around here at any rate seem fine after 7/8 years...

As one lager seller famously says, probably, its a true H. But I've seen cases where that very accepted close coupled setup still gave problems with pump over/air ingress even after all new pipework like yours was installed, no idea why, and was only cured by converting exactly to my over 50...

The big clue was in your post #20 "It just seems to ooze from underneath when it's actually firing, which is a puzzle. There's no leak during the day from 8am till 5pm when it's off. It's been like that for many weeks."

That looks pretty like it to me, with Vent & Fill no more than 150mm apart.

A relation has one and says it "only" requires remaking the air bubble every 18 months or more but he does a full cylinder drain down and arranges it when the HW has been used up, I've read of some who do it similar to the Megaflo just using that procedure where the level is only drained by ~...