The plot thickens lol
It was a solid fuel Aga not gas and Aga dont condone gas conversions so aren't very helpful ! I think its a Don conversion but couldn't find any contact details when I googled DON ? Any thoughts ?
Thanks for the replies
Had a look at that conversion and dont think...
True but the customer will pay the price if I can source one because a new Aga is what £5000 ish ? They are aware that it may cost in excess of £200 for the valve alone - if I can find one that is :x
Hello I just wondered if anyone knew where I could source a Dungs BM751 gas valve ? Its for an old solid fuel Aga converted to gas and its letting by.
I've tried Partscenter, Gas appliance spares, Dungs and everyone draws a blank
Many thanks
Ok - its not a seled system because you have a F&E tank in the loft which means its open vented ( A sealed system usually consists of a pressure guage and some means of manually filling the system ie. a filling loop )
If it is fully pumped it is more than likely a zone valve or mid position...
I would suspect that if you have put a new motorised valve on and the wiring you did is correct that the fault lies else where ?
As mentioned above you need to start testing really with a multimeter to diagnose a heating fault with any accuracy
You dont normally have two tanks in the loft with a Primatic cylinder - are you sure its primatic ?
Sounds like an airlock if there are no motorised valves ?
You only seal the outside of the channel so that any water that gets into the channel can run down the inside and into the tray rather than build up and leak on the outside :D
Depends on wether or not you want to leave the pipework there !!
Is the pipework surface mounted ? Does it drop down the wall or come up from under the floor ?
You can easily turn off the rad valves, drain the rad and then remove it leaving the pipework in place
As mentioned above sounds like the valve is a gate valve with the head taken off for a reason Ie. a bypass or even to regulate the flow of the water into/out of the coil - I would leave that alone for the time being.
Also as mentioned above check the tanks in the roof space to make sure they...
Maybe make some enquiries ( with a different plumber !! ) about a condensing heat only boiler and fast recovery cylinder - this would still make for a very efficient system - as stated you dont HAVE to have a pressurised heating or hot water system if you dont want to
Close off the rad valves and crack the nut at the radiator - Make sure you place a tub underneath and have a towel on hand !!! Shouldn't take long as they dont actually hold that much water ( beware when you undo the bleed pip as the shift in pressure will force the water out of the cracked nut...
Normally you close the rad valves, drain some of the radiator into a tub and then inject the superconcentrate - upon completion open up the rad valves
I dont rate this type at all to be honest its a pain in the backside to use - Have you a towel rail at all ? turn the rad valves off, drain...
You shouldn't have a shower pump with a combi boiler - when you have a combi installed you can get a mixer shower designed to handle higher pressures - eg Mira 415 combiforce mixer shower
Also as mentioned if the incoming cold water supply is not adequate ( pressure wise ) then a combi boiler...
God No !
Has this problem only occurred recently ? ( Ie you've not had a new kitchen tap or anything ) - If it has its probably a trapped washer or something in the body of the tap
Do the tap handles turn easily ?
Yes sorry my wording should have been clearer - The heating works with the above scenario
What i'm trying to say is that unless the Hot water is selected on the programmer ( wether satisfied or not at the cylinder stat ) the heating will not fire when the room thermostat is turned up -...