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I should leave it. Useful info on how not to kill yourself. Not everyone will realise how dangerous it is to mess with the incoming service.

Not quite sure what you have in mind, but might depend on the capacity of the existing unit. To be honest, if you are nervous and having to ask about such things, it's probably not a job you should be contemplating. Building regulations apply too so you might be better calling someone in.

Could be that you will have one that is the live pair into the fitting. (1) One pair that is the switch wire. (2) The third pair would probably be the pair that feeds the downstairs light. (3) With that in mind are you able to use your meter to confirm?

Does the fitting have two bulbs? Do you have one set feeding each bulb? Don't suppose you could post a picture? That would help.

Yes, but better to continue the circuit from the existing fused spur, (first shower) and on to your second fused spur, (second shower) rather than use a junction box. Easier to carry out the required tests. Have you considered the hot water requirement when running two showers? Might be worth...

Do you know how the existing power shower is fed? From the ring main or a spur off the ring for example? If it's a ring main then you could just spur off the existing supply at the point that feeds the first shower and feed the second shower via a second switched fuse spur. You can also do...

So long as you note which is the common, then the other two are not critical. Works either way. Turn the supply off before you start!

Have a look at this link dj. Might give you some general info. http://www.central-networks.co.uk/Pdfs/csmanual.pdf#search='cable%20damage' Then there's this one.................... :shock: http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/low/england/cambridgeshire/3701467.stm

Supply cables don't get clipped to the wall below ground. They are not always marked by tape. What physical protection they have is always going to be at it's minimum when the cable gets close to the entry point of the building. Even if it was in a tube then it could still be damaged if you hit...

because they don't use that to seal the cut out. It's a standard meter seal. Honest :lol:

TNS Supply, but hopefully has a rod somewhere as the earth terminal is missing a cable! That's a 100ma RCCB too. Is there an additional 30ma anywhere?

there you go 8)

A 32a mcb will protect the 6mm. But..... Ignoring diversity, the hob will pull nearly 28amps on it's own! The oven maybe another 12A? Then we have the socket outlet above the unit on the same cable? Potentially another 13A?? 28+12+13=53amps? Have I understood that correctly? cough...

Did one of the meter position, but can't see the cut out very well! I'll keep it in mind when I'm next out.

ok. One way then would be at the cooker outlet position, install a double socket. Plug top for the gas ignition, fused at 3amps. Plug top for the single oven fused at 13amps. You have to make sure that your single oven has a rating of less than about 2800W though. Another way, if the...

you need to fuse the supply for the hob down to 3amps, so connecting direct into the cooker outlet is not really an option without considering how to do that. Depending on the rating of your new oven (single/double?) you could change the cooker outlet to a twin socket. Do you know what the...

securespark. Are you just after any pictures of mains positions/rods?

Have you been doing anything at all, maintenance wise, near to the toilet? New pictures or fittings fitted anywhere? Is it a wall switch or a pull switch?

There is a sticker near to the terminal block sometimes, or occasionally on the top of the oven housing if it is a slot in type.

I fit veritas R8 panels. Have done for years. Don't think I have ever had a problem. Installer and end user friendly.