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whoops - 2018 - Sometimes my fingers work in the wrong order.... ...Or, I could pretend to be the reincarnation of an Anglo-Saxon chippy I see yours don't either..... "Decorticator" :ROFLMAO:

Have to say that's really carp, and agree the latest reviews also show a lot of problems. As I say, I bought 6 of these back in 1028 and they were absolutely fine. Looks like the quality has deteriorated

To me they look like someone has been extremely heavy handed putting window fixings in. Perhaps they used concrete screws and blew the bricks?

Leyland water based undercoat/primer + satin top coat.

As 150sq gate posts are easily available, why?

I used the panelled clear pine wickes doors throughout my house and they are absolutely fine after 6 years. Most unglazed, two with the edwardian etched glass panels. I recommend them https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Skipton-Glazed-Clear-Pine-4-Panel-Internal-Door---1981mm/p/9000281479 I see...

I used it because it was to hand, but its lasting up very well on that worktop - getting on for a year now and I've subsequently used it on exterior wood and it seems to have no problems at all. It dries hard but not completely brittle. I suspect the reason it may not be promoted as a wood...

quite. It was woody's sarcy post #12 that I was particularly referring to re is it or is it not a verandah. The rest was just clarifying PD for the OP

I've used tetrion clear stonefill (it's actually cream coloured) on a wooden worktop successfully. It seems to be standing up to use very well https://community.screwfix.com/threads/wooden-worktop-repair.277508/

@^woody^ is on the right lines here I think. If it's >1m from boundary, at that size it's exempt from any regs requirements for substantially non combustible. If it's >2m from the boundary, the 2.5m rule doesn't apply - it goes up to 4m ridge and 2.5m eaves, or 3m flat. The sloping ground is the...

Wack some sand and cement in the gaps, replace the fridge and get on with your life. The primary problem, of course, is the fridge itself. It will have a mechanism to defrost, and all the defrost liquid is then taken down in to some part of the fridge where it is evaporated. Guess what, that...

I did a very similar construction https://community.screwfix.com/threads/garden-room.256842/ I had the same fears as we have rats around near the pub next door. I used a perimeter rat mesh on the inside of the outer beam and I buried the bottom hoping that rusting out of the galvanised mesh...

What do you think that lintel is holding up? - Yes, a triangle of blocks above - what's that 3 blocks? maybe 6? Leave it as it is, it's going nowhere.

I'd use this https://www.limebase.co.uk/product/tetrion-stonefil-900ml/ It says "filler" but it's a 2 part resin and works well as both filler and adhesive

Go down your local trade window supplier (most will deal with the public - this is my go-to http://lostockhallglass.co.uk/) with the window size and spec and get a price for a complete new window. I think you'll find it isn't worth trying to repair just the sash. I bought 4 complete fully glazed...

What I do quite often is reinforce the front edge of a thin shelf with 1/2" square steel tube. Painted colour to match or even recessed it is virtually unnoticeable

Yes, EPC inspectors have x-ray vision and never make mistakes....

60mm? why not 35mm of PIR and a floating 22mm chip floor? LVT will go nicely over that.

Horses for courses. If you need cordless and SDS, you have to pay the ££££. Personally I don't find a corded SDS any problem, but then I would only use it for a few holes here and there occasionally.

If it's got plaster on it, you do have the room depth for overboarding. What I have done is strip to brick, make up a slurry of cement and SBR and paint it on - don't know how necessary this is, but it's easy to do - idea being it seals the brickwork, and then I've fixed plasterboard with foam...