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I take it that the mullion's were not supporting anything above ??

Depending on how involved you want to get, try the long screw method, but make sure you find the joist's, then patch up the hole's. The trouble with this method is that if it's loose, there may be loose crap above the cove, so when the screw tries to pull it up it doesn't sit properly...

Hi andyhol, Are the cracks where the plaster board meets the coving, (ie) horizontal ?. Any chance of some pics ?.

Let us know if it solve's the problem. Cheer's.

Classic, In more time there will be more of these problems on forums. 1. you have killed the walls ability to breath. 2. there is no space for air, or very little. 3. kingspan is foil backed, and so is the plaster board, any change in temperature, whether the outside wall or inside...

Hi' I take it you mean the plaster board's are in front of the door frame, rather than flush with it. A propper chippy will pack the door frame out to fix the architrave back on.

Hi jon Think you have answered your own question, seems to be the shower, and condensation.

Are you going to plaster over the MDF ?

Hi jon, How big is the patch, and is the outside ground level higher than the dpc ?. dpc's do not always work, you might want to contact the firm who did the work.

Hi, Taking a guess, is it sand and cement, then skimmed ?. Might be cat shyte in the sand and cement. The skimming will set hard over the sand and cement, fooling you its hard, but when pushed with a scraper, will go soft. Once dug out the smell will reveal all :lol: . Could even be a damp...

What you going to do in 7 to 10 years time, when the k rend, (etc), has weathered ?............Yep, end up painting it. Sand and cement all the way, then paint, using mineral silicate paint 1.180. Dulux do more colors as well, and last just as long, and cheaper.

Some renders have been on buildings for hundreds of years. Sounds like the work is pargeting.......looks like stone, but just cut out, in the render.

Was there any waterproofer in the scratch coat ?

Hi rawdon, you say you had a professional renderer look at it, there is no such thing as a renderer. A plasterer yes, alarm bells ringing for me. Sounds like a lot of money for what he is going to. You could remove the hollow areas and patch up, then tyrolean the lot. Sure this would be...

P.S Did they arrive on horses :lol:

Hi mate, First, they did not know what they were doing with the k rend or the s@c. A job this size would be a days work for a plasterer and a lab. Looks like they even did the s@c in 2 sections, which tells me lack of experience, or cowboys as you said. If it was me i would get...

If you are in spain, you should be able to get this product, good stuff...

No primer needed, just paint with masonry paint, Dulux wethershield should do it.

Hi chanman, let the plasterer fit the arch, if you make it too tight against the head and the face/reveals, he will struggle to get his angle beads on. This will result in starting again, make sure he is a plasterer and not a skimmer :roll:

yes you can, let the browning set hard, then skim. carlite finish is better though. once the browning has set leave for about a hour, then skim. this will give a bit of suction, to stop the bubbles.