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http://usa.hudsonreed.com/ Supplied via Taps4less.

Right then, stripped the valve down and fortunately, I only needed to chip a little grout off rather than dig out tiles (phew) - all the seals and o-rings were perfect, although a little 'dry'. I gave everyhing a liberal coating of grease and re-assembled it all. Good news - before the...

Cheers. On the basis that the problem at the shower end stays the same even with the pump switched off and the flow reduced to very little, and there has never been any surging or pulsing in flow or variance in temperature once set, I guess I can assume that I'm not drawing air? Or am I...

[/url] Thanks. It would appear, that whilst not the ideal solution, the T adaptor is accepted as an option, and that my set up falls within specs for this type. I take it this is all in an effort to stop it drawing air? Or are there other problems with this set up?

Just out of interest, here is the PDF instructions that came with my shower pump. http://www.newteamshowers.com/projects/cnew001/web/PID.nsf/webresources/404-0131_0504.PDF/$File/404-0131_0504.PDF Page 6 mentions the T piece hot water connector. I admit that it also suggests an Essex flange...

Thanks Chris. I'll wait for the parts to turn up and see what's involved. If it looks like a real ball acher, I might give them a call and see what they can do to help. I asked if it could be accessed from the front and all she said was that I'll need to remove the large cover plate to...

The central heating and hot water is working fine now and is fairly quiet, except for the leaking honeywell valve. Just out of interest - what does the magnet technique do? All gate valves and pipe runs check, open and correct. Cold water is taken from the header tank using a 22 mm...

No worries - at least the heating side of things is sorted now - except for the jungle-gym of copper pipe! I'll call the Hudson Reed help line tommorrow and describe the problem - I just hope they can come up with an answer that doesn't involve removing the valve - that would be hideous!

Haven't cut n'pasted anything, just remembering back to college. And yes, to be honest, cavitation is very difficult to positively identify within a central heating system, especially if there is air already trapped in there. However, if air was trapped, and this was to cause a recuction of...

I was very careful to connect the supply the right way round as indicated on the valve. It does get hotter when i turn it to hot and vise versa, just not hot enough.... It's really getting on my nerves now. As for ripping it all out - I've just spent 6 months and a small fortune totally...

A fluid hammer is the sudden 'bang' you get when you suddenly release or stop the flow of a liquid or gas. Imagine holding a plug a few inches above the pug hole whilst the water runs away. If you gently lower the pug, eventually the water flow will grab and snatch the plug into the hole with a...

Right then.... Just before I started splitting pipes, my father came round and offered some help. Long story short..... after a good session of fiddling with valves, gates, contollers etc (but not actually 'fixing' anything) I have managed to get the 'water only' system working fine -...

Yup, in denial. Just noticed my other thread has been locked due to breach of forum etiquette. Sorry mods, wasn't trying to be clever, just thought that as the problem diagnosis has moved away from the shower, the title of this thread was no longer appropriate. No offence intended and don't...

The bypass is closed. All gates including exit from cyl (return to boiler) are fully open and opperate smoothly. I closed the gate that runs to the rads to simulate 'water only' and after about 30 seconds the hum turned to a drone, turned to a louder drone and then a load of gurgling and...

There is a valve and I've checked it's open fully. The pump is on number 2 setting. The only difference changing the speed of the pump makes is the pitch of the noise. It only goes away when the bypass is fully open which gives me no hot water.

Having now identified the source of my hot water issues, I have opened this thread as the title for this thread is more appropriate. I have a fully pumped, vented CH system in a two story house built in 1990. Whenerver I run the system as 'water only' the pump goes very noisy and sounds...

IS there a way of checking it without 'opening' the system? Correct me if I'm wrong - but all I need to achieve to solve my 'water not hot enough' is the ability to run my progammable system in the evening on 'Water Only' (so the rads don't get hot) without the pump groaning like a kenwood...

Just a quick thought.... Is it possible that the honywell valve is not opening fully? How could I check this? Might be an easier one to check before I start pulling pipework?

Thanks guys. The house was built in 1990. Last new house I ever buy. Total joke from start to finish. A lottery win would see me getting proper architects in working to contracted, penalty claused tolerances. Meanwhile in the real world.... I'll have a poke around for blockages -...

I don't have TRV's - just standard rad valves everywhere. I keep all the rads all over the house switched on. If I leave that bypass gate valve just slightly open - is this to reduce back pressure on the pump whenthe rads (heating) is switched off to allow me to run 'water only'? I'd have...