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I would not recommend that.

Anywhere that is convenient, where it will physically fit, and where it is safe to do so. In particular the relay in their photo has exposed (live) screw terminals, so that needs to be in an enclosure of some sort. Have they advised on a specific relay? What is the rating of its contacts?

Anyway…. I’ve just looked at your first post again and I see that the previous boiler was a Vokera. I do have a recollection of a post here about a new Vokera model where someone commented that “finally Vokera have got flow and return the same way around as all the other manufacturers”. I’ll see...

“Just change all the radiators” about the same price as swapping the flow and return pipes at the boiler????? This is a DIY forum. My advice would be, keep your interaction with “professionals” to the legal minimum and do it yourself. Then you don’t have to deal with this sort of bullshit, you...

Well, whatever the history, it is certainly wrong. Fix it by adjusting the pipework wherever is most convenient, likely at or near the boiler. Edited to add: “consistently at the lockshield” isn’t the issue, but “consistently at the bottom of the radiator” is what matters. Just for clarity.

Feel the pipes at the radiator. The one that get warm first is the flow. Of course you shouldn’t need to do this, but…….

BTW: which thermal camera do you have?

They quickly remove the old boiler and dump it in the garden. Now they’ve got a load of pipes sticking out of the floor and a boiler with some connections. They can probably identify the gas pipe, I hope. The others - well, some are 15mm and some are 22mm. They connect the 22mm pipes to the CH...

Are you sure that’s not the inlet side? (I’m unsure.)

Slightly unusual to have one connection at the top, it’s more common to have both connections at the bottom. I agree with @denso13, the circulation is probably the wrong way. Hot water is entering at the bottom left, rising straight to the top, crossing to the right and exiting. I guess you can...

Do you know what they screw into behind the boards? I would expect timber battens, but we can’t be sure. Could also be metal studs of some sort. There don’t really seem to be a lot of screws… what do others think?

What exactly do you mean by “isolate” there? What shape / style of radiators are they?

You probably have a “mixed pressure system” at your kitchen tap, i.e. hot is low pressure, cold is direct from the mains. (Right?) Taps do exist for that and do work. I think there are two channels all the way to the spout, so there is no mixing in the body of the tap.

I’ve tried to do this in my flat and found it essentially impossible. The boards were fixed with large ring-shank nails that need a lot of force to extract. They were driven in through the grooves, nearer to horizontal than vertical - so prizing up the edge of the board does not pull the nail in...

So you’re proposing only 4mm of insulation between the pipes and the cold ground?

Any insulation under the concrete?

Not very easy. How much depth is there below the floor? Enough for a small child to crawl around in?

Maybe they imagine that the plastic is supporting the pipe, which will be vulnerable to being yanked if unrestrained.

What was the test result?

They are allegedly problematic, i.e. difficult to get the right humidity threshold.