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Can't see how the condensing secondary heat exchanger can work, as it's going to have hot water straight out of the main heat exchanger - though I've never looked into the internals of a condensing boiler to see how it is arranged. There may be other aspects of the internal water flow through...

Sigh, so the plumber gets it's wrong, and then bodges it... Could ring the manufacturers first if you want to see what they say, but seems to me the plumber should be called back to do it properly (at their cost) Condensing boilers have a secondary heat exchanger, the return water passes...

Yeah, don't think it's worth the expense and hassle myself - if the cable needs replacing, for not that much of an improvement IMO I'd look at putting the money towards a 'proper' shower

Follow your drains and see where they go, there will be a manhole cover or two on the drive, in the front of the house etc. if it goes towards the road.

I'm wondering if 82mm soil pipe would be acceptable. IIRC it's to do with the size of the WC oulet, it must be<80mm, but not sure. Have a look at Approved Document H: http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/uploads/br/BR_PDF_ADH_2002.pdf

Did you drain down first to remove any water pressure? I assume it's an epoxy repair putty, I've used it to repair a car radiator and it did many more 1000's miles. But it wasn't drained down, then I wouldn't expect it to work very well really

Scissors? that's a bit technical Charnwood. I like Loctite 55 cord for thread sealing, esp. useful as you can back it off a little to get things lined up right.

Part L refers to Part L of the Building regulations, introduced in about 2010. http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/uploads/br/BR_PDF_AD_L1B_2011.pdf It is to do with the conservation of energy and power in buildings. some work is notifiable to BC, though not IIRC things like changing a...

Sorry, but your friend is talking rubbish. As for the programmer, set it on pumped (I suspect the previous programmer was set for gravity, if it doesn't operate the CH and HW independently, then might need to check how things are wired.

Well, you could both be right, he may well have had a non condensing boiler fitted in contravention of the rules, maybe unknowingly by a cowboy or friendof a friend or whoever. But as Dan says, in reality to get an exemption is pretty much impossible for a typical installation

Ok, I've no need to argue semantics about whether or not something is a cock up. I agree (as I said) that the plumber should have noticed and informed the OP, and suggested a course of action. (This is assuming that the rad in there was always like this, and that the plumber didn't plumb new...

Hmm, Not sure about that. Presumably he connected up to the existing pipes supplying the rad. so presumably already plumbed like this. If he did something else (eg ran new pipes) then yes it would sound like a cockup. Though I would have thought he should have noticed it when he tested it...

The hot water that you use doesn't pass directly through the boiler. The hot water from the boiler, (the same water that goes round the CH) goes through a coil of pipe inside the HW tank and back to the boiler. This heats the water in the tank that you use.

It's not silly to ask questions if you aren't sure. Anyway, it's a fully pumped system by the looks of it. The thing above the pump is a valve to direct the water to the CH or to heat the HW..

Does sound very much like knackered programmer. I would do the test as I suggested - as that will by pass the programmer, and confirm everything else is working ok first But you could just replace the programmer.

What was the problem that meant you thought the mid position valve was faulty? Anyway, buzzing from the programmer suggests a faulty programmer, when you say the CH cuts out does it appear to be the programmer switching off or something else happening. I would probably start by removing...

Well have you tried the obvious and rung/emailed Salamander?

Replace the stat with a Heatmiser wifi one, then you can use a computer/smartphone etc. to operate it.

I reckon WBP is fine, If you have a problem that is bad enough to cause WBP to delaminate , then that will be the least of your problems. I've got untreated WBP that's been out in the garden exposed to all weathers for about 5 years and it's fine. As to the OP's question, I used 18mm

Yeah, you really need to look at the kind of useage patterns, showers or baths, close together or spread out etc. We have a 162L tank for a family of 4 but so far it is fine for us as the usage tends to be spread out. (Though when I out in an ensuite I might put in an extra tank in there) And...