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The temp dropping to just below 0c isn't likely to see the pipes freezing, k it's probably only down that low for a couple of hours anyway. We ahve external pipework and that sort of temp doesn't cuse them any problem (they have frozen and burst when I forgot to turn off the supply, but it...

Yes, I agree with that, but people will often be in a position to board across a whole wall. Though yes, not really a lot of point to go to the time and expense of boarding out just to make plumbing in the shower easier.

in cambridgeshire we just suck it out of the drain (as is ditch etc.)

Well, I still heat up a tank of water in the summer. Still washing of people, washing up, baths etc. to be done.

AFAIK yes, certainly that is often how commercial installations are done. Though without looking I don't know if the regs have anything to say about it in domestic situations. You can get manifold systems designed for this eg...

Well, it certainly makes the plumbing installing the shower easier/quicker, obviously leave off some of the boards for the shower to be installed, adn there needs to be noggins or studs in the right place for mounting the valve outlets, rails etc. Though obviously talk to the installers...

Well, it shouldn't do it, so I guess the AAV has become faulty. I'd just replace the trap

Heating the water is cheaper by gas. Gas is about 1/3 cost of elec per Kwh. (there are some loses in the gas system, but not so as to make the difference much better) Also the performance of the pumped shower will be better. So I would go for the pumped one (main advantage of the elec one is...

Would there be space in the cylinder cupboard to mount the pump on shelf, say above the tank or something like that? Or could the cold water cistern in the loft be raised at all? You don't need much head above the pump - as Rob says about 500mm (for the Monsoon pumps, Stuart turner say 500mm...

15L will be a very short shower (2 mins or so on a 10L/min shower), and a 5kw instant heater will be too a low flowrate really.(think of an electric shower of that wattage. What did you use to try removing the existing immersion boss plug? the cheap flat spanners don't always work very well...

McAlpine also do them - their resealing traps as opposed to the ones with the AAV, more likely to get a bit of noise though. If I was replacing a kitchen bottle trap I'd consider replumbing with a P trap. We have a bottle trap on our sink and it's more prone to blocking with bits of crud that...

You use a weathering slate. eg: http://www.screwfix.com/p/end-ventilation-slate-sp320/19121

I'm kind off surprised that you consider your bath to fill quickly given my experience with combi's - we had quarter turn taps in the old house with a combi and the combi was the limiting factor - turning on just the cold and we got a much better flow rate. Filling the bath took ages. some...

Well, with that small a space, electric heating is a more realistic option. It's only going to require a few Kilowatts to heat. Is there a boiler in there yet? If you want a cylinder then how generous do you want to be. The smallest unvented cylinder you can find (probably about 80 -90 L)...

Buck is suggesting not bothering with a water tank at all. Having an electric shower and two small stored water electric water heaters. This kind of thing: http://www.screwfix.com/p/ariston-europrisma-2kw-15litre-undersink-water-heater/60922 Basically a small unvented tank fed by the mains...

Well I did think that, but i'm not sure that it would help here. Seems to me we have the opposite situation from a vacuum, the water going own the basin waste seems to be causing pressure in the pipe pushing water back up out of the bath trap.

does it seem to be water from the handbasin actually going up into the bath, or is it just a glug of water being pushed up? Can you see how the waste pipes are run/connected together. Maybe a diagram for us?

Well, I dunno about 'within your rights' as such, but I certainly wouldn't be happy with that pipe right close to the ground. As you say, having carpet fitted will be awkward, more prone to damage and pain to clean around (we have a similar pipe in our kitchen, about 1/2 inch of the floor, it's...

And whereabouts is the leak? by the cistern, or by the toilet pan?

Or, the bodgers way :-) put some molegrips round the pipe, snug but not tight behind the nut, and hit them with something to knock of the nut and olive. Or cut the pipe and use a slip Tee, eg http://www.screwfix.com/p/john-guest-speedfit-15tkp-slip-tee-connector-15mm/32703