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I had a call to a customer who thought he was getting a 'tingle' of some metal hall light switches "because they were new." Actually, it was because the earth ('cpc') wasn't connected and the live (phase) was touching the plate. I fixed it on the spot and told him he was lucky he or his kids...

The cover has to be fit for purpose, fire proof, ingress proof etc. I recently tried to get some replacements for GE c/u's but they couldn't be a*sed! I've just taken out a crabtree box, if I can find it on the skip i'll let you know!

To carry out the correct tests requires specialist equipment and the knowledge of how to use it. And, just to bang the gong of those who have done the training and certification.... Anyway, if you want to read up on the relevant tests and requirements buy your self the IEE On-site guide and/or...

Max spans/heights is in the OSG table 4B page 104 and refers reg522-08. You'll have to look that up yourself coz I'm off to bed!

I just remembered seeing a whole range on SETON catalogue (the H&S people) I meant to look there again myself so thanks for the nudge. I also got a freebee from Schneider/Merlin Guerin before Christmas so have a look there maybe.

I was lucky enough to get one at one of my regular wholesalers. Considering they are supposed to be essentials under part p and GS38 etc you usually get 'no call for them mate!' Wylex make the perfect item cat no. mcbldx - it's like a claw which you screw onto the switch so it can't be closed...

What are you lot on?! Is this a spur (max rating 13amps) or a radial 'cooker' circuit? There is no way the hob should be connected via a 'spur'. The oven is rated well below 13amps so is ok on a fused spur, even a 13amp plug top. If you have a separate 'cooker' circuit, please stop calling it...

The issue of physical damage is important, but separate. The issue of insulation is that if cable is surrounded by insulation than it's current capacity is significantly reduced. If you have access to the IEE On-Site Guide there are tables which explain. Put simply, if a cable is enclosed for...

You're needed in Sydney if that's your batting! :lol:

That was pointless! :?

If you google Honeywell 'Y'plan or go to the Honeywell web site you will get the wiring schematic for a 'Y'plan there (which is hopefully what you have) !! take care !! there may be a white or black wire which has just been snipped off. Please take care to terminate these safely in separate...

Sorry, just re-read your post, I can't believe the engineer would not have repressurised the system.

You say you bled the rads, did you re-pressurise the system?

I thought we'd already established the load is 29 amps approx (oven + hob)?! He doesn't want two circuits, he wants one. The cable is 6mm2 so is suitably protected by the 32amp breaker. Applying your thinking, then, you'd be putting a 1amp breaker on a lighting circuit with on a couple of 100w...

Yes, we were getting the occasional shock of the (metal) light switch.... I thought it was because it was new!

Good post, Breezer. As a matter of interest, where do you usually connect the live strapper wire on a dimmer switch? I have always used 'com' as with a rocker switch, but have just fitted a switch where the manufacturer specified L2. I haven't had a chance to check out why.

Sorry, three questions: 1) colour of wires 2) do you have mains tester scredriver or multimeter? 30 do you have some plastic insulated connector blocks?

Are the wires red & black or brown and blue?

Wow this one is being beaten flatter than a roadkill. I think Pensdown, davelx and i have all said its ok to use the existing circuit. There's no reason why you can't connect both appliances in to the cooker switch. The only problem will be the amount of cable you are trying to accomodate, so...

It's not notifiable if he's connecting to the existing connection unit