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Hi Bit of a bump. Does anyone know whether a couple of Single room heat recovery units would be any good? thanks

Hi the positive air ventilation was the PIV I mentioned. I'm not sure we can do it because of the chalet bungalow roofs. but thanks

morning not entirely sure this belongs here, but... as a lot of people do, we suffer a bit from condensation. Nowhere near as bad as others, we ventilate, we heat etc. But we live in a bowl shaped valley, surrounded by a wood. There are days when there's no wind, so opening the windows doesn't...

No creosote - or equivalent - I'm guessing? Is that just old school?

Oh really? thanks for that. So no varnish - what are we talking with a flexible breathing stain - something like a high performance wood preserver from a shop beginning with W?

Grand - thanks for the quick reply. I'd prefer proper planks over veneer I have to confess. After a few coats of varnish I'm sure it'll look grand. It's also the cheapest by a long way.

many thanks - that was my view. The wife however looks it may not look good enough...so she's come up with another idea. One that is engineered 'engineered door which has a core of blocks of wood with a veneer of Meranti' Again 44mm thick, but do you reckon it would last longer? thanks

hi all Looking to replace a side garage door with a plan panel wooden door. Nothing too elaborate, looks not that important. So we have a choice of two; both FLB, both Mortice and Tenon. Both 44mm thick. Redwood is £87 + £35 delivery Hemlock is £230 + £35 delivery What does the extra get me...

okay - step #1 then is to get the HE to establish all the TRVs are full bore. Then potentially down the extra piping route. Could be fun. Many thanks again for your help

but would that manifest itself in this manner? I'm guessing it would, if the flow was restricted. Could well turn out that all of them are, except the one on Bedroom 3 (say), which is therefore stopping the flow to bedroom 4 and the study.

to be honest I'm not sure. I've just emailed the heating engineer, but it wouldn't surprise me.

it will be fine for those two rads yes. As long as it doesn't affect the others on that circuit Changing the old TRVs to full bore on the single loop (at £40 each...) would be 250 quid, plus fitting. cheaper - but no guarantee of success. many thanks for your help

I believe it's on the maximum anyway - we've had the engineers out a lot to have a look

it's a brand new pump. When we extended the kitchen we replaced everything Could it just be a case of replacing the existing TRVs with ones specific for single loop? Expensive, but obviously cheaper than a few new pipes

it was down before we moved in - otherwise I'd be kicking myself we hadn't sorted it

oh yes! Lounge/hall/study/bedroom 3/bedroom4...

I did wonder that - whether I would be pushing the issue to bedroom 3. I did assume though that as it works well now, it would continue to work well (fewer rads on the circuit means the same amount of hot water been used less? Surely?) Changing to a double loop would be lovely, but the...

Thanks Tibbot - there is a bypass for the boiler. And when - rarely - I do top things up I use it. Just unsure whether I need to, as there's conflicting 'evidence' from the two suppliers.

the TRVs have mostly been replaced; the remaining old ones are working fine apparently (and to be fair do control the temp of the rads). The system has been balanced by two sets of heating engineers.

the UfH is on its own zone, with its own thermostat. The CH is on its own zone, with a Honeywell 927 thermostat. The HW is obviously not connected to the CH. We used to experience the issue with the old boiler - an 20 year old Worcester. Assumed that was just under powered but we still...