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The Baxi Duo-Tec has frost protection already built in. If the system temperature drops below 5c, the boiler fires on minimum setting until until a flow temperature of 30c is reached.

I disagree as the boiler will only ramp up to maximum once during warm up and only when needed, modern boiler electronics see to that. I agree pumping 35kw into a 20kw system is overkill, hence the Vaillant 837 produces 37kw to HW and 28kw into ch at maximum. I guess it's down to flow rates...

I have ask what are the benefits of range rating when combis modulate down automatically according to demand? Boilers that modulate down from peak output will heat the rads from cold quicker, reach working temperature and then decrease output. Most combis will modulate down to 7 - 9 KW anyway...

And still check the venturi, blowing through doesn't always work as the crud may be stuck. Remove, inspect and clean. It only takes a speck on these.

Just read the OP again, and of course when you remove the lift out tube the water level will be below the outlet !! The tube when reassembled provides the seal. Are you sure this is the source of the smells??

Sounds like a top access shower trap to me: http://www.mcalpineplumbing.com/productmenu.asp (click waste traps, shower traps about 2/3 down) May be it's not assembled properly or incorrect choice of seal depth has been chosen resulting in loss of water seal ?? 75mm minimum seal on traps...

VUW 242 is the Turbomax, OP was right.

The 105 instants are a bit of a sod, very tight with the polystyrene insulation and the 2 awkward connections. But the standard 105e isn't bad. The horizontal flue needs to pushed back through the wall, but providing there is the minimum 200mm space above the boiler, it comes out easy enough.

LOL true kevplumb.

Deciphering what you are saying there, you have no heating or hot water and the boiler extinguishes after 2-3 minutes? I take it the system is fully pumped and you have a three way valve? Is the pump running? Is there a manual airvent near the mororised valve?

Fan venturi needs cleaning, almost certain :wink:

You can also add the HT lead into the equation, even though the pilot lights, a damaged lead may not return the signal. But it's safe to say it's the PCB in this case.

There you go, Richard C's given you all the info you need. Essex flanges are far more awkward to fit as it involves drilling the cylinder. Down south, most cylinders are 1" female tappings and a surrey flange will do. However, up north they are generally male tappings and surrey flanges...

You be right, fella. Change it, job done.

Remove the white filler key, (turn and pull bayonet style)(should be removed anyway). This will test if the filler valve is infact letting by. If it is replace the key temporarily and get the built in filling loop replaced.

Smoke from the pump isn't good. It's probably had it. I would site the pump in the airing cupboard, bring down a dedicated cold supply from the tank and use a Surrey flange for the hot. Take the pipework up into the loft and fit manual air vents, so that the system can be primed. Providing...

Don't take the hot feed from there Brian, you will be dragging air down the open vent. The hot water connection should be off the top of the cylinder with a surrey or warix flange.

Sounds like the gas valve to me. During the ignition sequence you need to establish whether it is opening. (They are dual solenoid as a failsafe, only 1 needs to fail). You should be getting gas to the burner. Reluctant to explain further as this job should be for registered gas engineers. New...

Beat me to it namsag :wink:

Sorry, but I just need to clarify. The system has been converted to fully pumped incorporating a 3 way valve. If so, there are 2 possibilities: 1. 3 way valve letting by. (should be obvious.) 2. Reverse circulation. Caused by not picking up all the radiators to one common tee in the...