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Ok... not sure why the neon was glowing as a bulb does not come on if you connect it to those wires. Now that there's a load across the wires, the neon doesn't glow anyway!

No.. it doesn't trip with wall lights removed. This is doing my head in! - If I disconnect the yellow wire with red band (bottom right) then why is there still 230 volts at the wall light wires?! Surely this would be the switched live going to the wall lights? Strangely, though, it's barely...

I was using a standard multimeter - which I agree doesn't test insulation properly. PICS BELOW The wall switch has two circuits. One is for the wall lights (which I'm having the problem with). The other side is for the two-way ceiling light switch which I think works fine. I have NOT...

I had hit a cable with a drill. But I dug a big hole out in the wall to inspect it and none of the internal wires had any insulation damage. I also wrapped the cable in insulating tape just in case, so I'm fairly sure this isn't the problem. I'm gussing that the only thing that could cause a...

But I can't see any problem with the wiring on the light fitting. So I'm a little stumped as to what caused the short in the first place. I've now isolated that switch (and lights) and the mains comes back on OK. But as far as I can tell, the wall lights are wired up correctly with no shorts...

Hi, I'm trying to diagnose a problem whereby my lighting circuit breaker trips when I turn on a particular light after having changed the light fitting. I'm finding it very difficult to diagnose as two problems have occurred at the same time (the switch has physically stopped operating...

Hi, I'm having an argument. Our building's manager is trying to tell me that cold taps are always fed off the mains and that the cold water header tank is only used to feed the hot water system. Yet I'm 90% sure that in my last two houses, the bathroom and cloakroom taps were fed from the...

OK... Can any plumbers who've installed lots of these recommend any reliable makes? The easiest to find seem to be Honeywell, but my current one is a an ACL Drayton and I was hoping to find the same one so I end up with a spare head. However I'm not sure mine is still available.

Hi, My central heating's 3 port valve is dripping a small amount of water. Is there a way of fixing these or do I need drain the system and replace it? Thanks, Nick....

Well I took the advice of the people in this and other threads and bought a new PCB off eBay for £95 (new type). Spent an hour or two fitting it, and it didn't fix the problem at all. In fact it was worse because the reset button would no longer fix the problem. Instead the led was flashing red...

Update: I noticed that while the boiler is "locked out" and the red LED is flashing once every few seconds, if I remove the thermistor from the pipe *without* disconnecting the wires to it and blow on it, the boiler *immediately* fires back up. So I'm now fairly certain that the thermistor...

Well it drops if I warm it up a bit, but it's definitely ~300k or more. I've been trying to find a replacement as they're only a few quid, but i can't seem to find anybody that sells them! (not if I search by potterton part number). Any ideas where I could get a replacement thermistor from...

The boiler won't come on full stop once the light has started flashing. It's not a hot water problem specifically.

I have noticed that the even if you switch the boiler off for quite a while, when you turn it on again, it still won't light and immediately starts flashing the red LED every 3 seconds or so. But at that point, the thermistor and overheat 'stat seem to be OK resistance wise, so what on earth...

There's a single live wire that goes to the pump. For some reason, there is no neutral wire connected. But the pump does switch on when needed (although it has always made a slightly funny noise. I think I've got a single 3 port valve. What's a bypass?? :) I checked the overheat...

Hi, I had the fairly common problem that my Potterton Suprima would "lock out" and flash it's red LED once per second. Going on the advice given by several in this forum, I replaced the PCB and wiring with the "upgrade kit" 5111603 PCB which is supposedly more reliable. However...

I'm handy with multimeter having done A-Level Electronics, but obviously I'm not really sure what I'm looking for on this system. As it's an intermittent fault, it might be hard to determine that a component is faulty if it's only faulty some of the time. I think I'll probably have to shell out...

Thanks Gaz. I might try that then. Are the new PCB kits going to be more reliable? I thought Potterton were suppose to be reliable - but I'm not a plumber so perhaps I've got the wrong end of the stick. :) Annoyingly it hasn't needed resetting in the last few days at all since I posted about...

So it's not likely to be something more simple like the thermostat? I've drained and refilled the system as it's not been done in 7 years, but the water came out surprisingly clean. The only sludge was in the expansion tank but I cleaned that out too. (And yes, I remembered to put some...

Hi, I have a Potterton Suprima 40 boiler in a standard setup. I have this problem whereby every day or two, the boiler will randomly turn off and flash it's red LED which means it's overheated. During this time, the pump is left on and the boiler won't fire again until I open the front cover...