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Many thanks to all that have posted so far. Can you tell me, why are 3-phases used to connect to a metre. I fitted one the other day, and didn't like not knowing why I did so. (Obviously not in Japanese though) Another question. I may be wrong but is 3-phase used, because the...

Don't worry, my old man will be getting a grilling too. Just wanted to have as much info as possible. I know it's not the real purpose of the forum, but i'm sure the mod's and posters won't mind people passing on their knowledge to a keen learner.

Hi all, i'm an apprentice due to start in college in a couple of weeks. I have been using this site as a useful resource for helping me understand more abput electrics. I intend to stick around, mainly to learn from the sparks on here, and maybe give out help as I go along. Anyway, I was...

Where is the best place to buy them? Cheers.

Add the extra to the ringmain, and if it keeps tripping then change the breaker. Its good you are precautios but it's unnecessary at this stage.

For my idea you will need: Relevant tools - Drivers, bolster, hammer, fixings, crimps, crimping tool. Large flush backbox for cooker switch. cooker switch. length of metal capping. plaster for remedial if you want to do it. few metres of cable (10MM I think) Blanking plate for existing...

hehe. "Outdoor socket?"

Look near the socket. Is there a pole for tieing horses?

A cooker switch. £10-15 pounds. Your existing cable (Probably ten mil can got to the supply connections, and your cooker cable to the load.

Two words. Extension. Lead.

Agreed.

Sounds like a rewire to me. Light's are fed from the sockets? :( No main switch :( Constant tripping :( Get the whole thing ripped out and start again. You probably have a series of age old problems, that could cost a lot of money and time to repair.

I would recommend buying smaller transformers and have one for each light. A few pounds each. Will work out the same but they are smaller, so if it ever needs replacing it will come out of the celing space easier. Oh, and don't buy fire hoods, just keep insulation away from the light. To buy...

Is there no way of taking the cable into the loft / underneath the upstairs floorboards. If not then do what you have to do, just get the job done and don't tell anyone :wink:

You're not supposed to because the cables could be damaged during installation. Buildind regs say the same thing, the cables can spread damp across a wall.

By cavity do you mean vertically down a studded wall?

It isn't a problem if the cable is 4mm. If the cable is 2.5mm then your plan sounds good mate. Except the cable ("Leg") you are introducing, to go back to the mains shouldn't come from a spur, it should come from a socket. Remember, all sockets should have two cables at them, except for the...

I found some in my first week as a apprentice, I blamed it for tripping the breaker, then realised that my lives had come out in the next socket :oops: :lol:

You have two red's because there are no neutrals in the switch. New switches have Common, l1, l2 whereas olser switches have l1, l2, l3. If I remember rightly then the old L1 is your common. Double check in the FAQ in the top of the forum page.

How did it go? I am in the same situation, I will probably use a DP switch.