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So my shed which is brick built with flat concrete roof, has some material falling from the ceiling in the centre where the concrete has leaked. I reroofed it externally last year with two layers of felt which seems to have stopped the problem getting worse, but I'd like to try and remedy the...

I considered that, but it won't work - you use a piece of timber in this way for one of two reasons. 1) To spread the impact of the hammer over a larger area, softening the pressure on an individual spot 2) To dampen the blow - i.e. spread out the force over a longer time as the wood will...

I build a shed last year - flat roof. At the back I decided to fit a drip edge into a gutter. The beam the gutter was attached to has warped over the summer, lifting the gutter in the middle and pushing against the drip edge. The drip edges were nailed to the boards with long felt nails which...

Yes - I was looking at torch on felt, although felt adhesive would be easier to use. My understanding is that I can use felt adhesive if I put down a single layer system as you'd use on a garden shed. But if I wanted to use one of the more durable two layer systems, I'd need to torch it?

My rental shares an outbuilding with the neighbour - it's a flat concrete roof that has been leaking in the middle. On the neighbour's side the council recovered the roof with felt to seal it. I'm planning to do the same to my side. The roof slopes slightly to the front where it is channeled...

If you'd read the thread properly you'd see my concern was not about attaching the stuff to the walls, but the underyling strength of the walls themselves which I decided wasn't going to be anything like sufficient - so how I attached the shelving is immaterial. A structure is only as strong as...

If my only option was a flat wall, then I'd agree, but having the two side walls to use it would be crazy to attempt to put all the support on the rear one. I'm currently leaning towards a floor standing, but wall supported system instead then I won't ever worry about how much weight I put on...

Tools - I keep the bodies in my freezer mate, doesn't everyone? :evil::D It's been my tool cupboard for years, but it's a total mess in there - the existing shelving is only 4'6 high and not that deep. Hmm - 60kg for every shelf is probably unlikely - just weighed my router box and it's 5kg...

I'm planning on putting floor to ceiling shelves up in my old airing cupboard. 80cm wide, 50cm deep - secured on 3 sides to batons screwed to the 15mm plasterboard which is supported on a metal frame. My understanding is that regular plasterboard rawplugs can take 6kg load safely, so 10 of...

Wow! Thank you so much for taking the time to write all that! Using a T&G only for the overlap was my original intent, but someone else advised me to use rebates as the T&G is only 14mm thick - but I guess if I install door stops (is that the right name?) then that wouldn't matter as they'd...

Yes - my plan was to align the ledges with the preferred hinge locations - I'm going to have a crack at mortice and tenoning them - last one I did was in school so I'm currently building a jig from a YT video and going to have a crack at some scraps to see if I can get them good. What's the...

The doors are sheltered with both a roof overhang, and cladding overhang - although water will inevitably hit the surface of the door, no chance of it getting behind (hence I'm comfortable using untreated wood for the frame). I prefer the 4x2 approach - weight is not an issue - the hinges...

That's a cracking video btw - I was wondering what to use for a lock and the tips on using the screw positions to fight movement in the hinges is brilliant. He doesn't allow much expansion though? Just 3mm on the sides.

It's all kiln dried stuff though I'm using so unless I left it out for a few days before fitting I guess it can only expand. I'll be treating it all before assembly and then painting it. Here's a though though - the T&G - do I need to allow room for THAT to expand as well, i.e. allow a small...

My opening is 1835 high and 1365 wide - there is a little variance in the width, I think mainly caused by the trim warping slightly on one side so it's actually 1365 wide in the middle, but at the top and bottom is 1368 so 3mm difference. I plan to build the doors out of 4x2 CLS covered with...

I'm not a pro, but all metal fixings used on cladding SHOULD be corrosion resistant - that can mean many things and SS is the most expensive option, although options are also dependent on the timber used. After that your question is more about contract law rather than DIY - I'd give Trada a...

So far I only treated the roof lining panels and painted them - trying to sand off the paint, but if these end up a little different it's no big deal. The door frame/architrave and the doors themselves are currently uncut and untreated so I have mostly a clean slate. I'm finding the number of...

Would something like this work? https://www.toolstation.com/wood-protective-treatment-5l/p93006

The exterior of my shed has a number of different materials. The corner posts are green treated fence posts The cladding is green treated feather edge I have untreated T&G for the doors and untreated smooth planed whitewood for the roof and door trims. I've used Ronseal fence paint before and...

Don't forget to factor in how long it will take to cure at this time of year. Depending on how wet your mix is it could take 2-3h - possibly more. i.e. Get cracking at first light, but be prepared for finishing off after dark - sort out some outdoor lighting etc.