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Another option is to skip the OSB and just apply the shiplap direct to the frame - and to strengthen the frame install some cross pieces between the studs?

Looking at my plans, I've got just over 100mm of room at the front to play with out of which has to come the shiplap any battens and roof overhang, so if I use 15mm shiplap and 25mm battens, then I'm left with a 60mm overhang.

I haven't got the space for battens on the outside between the OSB and the cladding as well as on the inside- the entire depth I have to work with is 1340mm - the membrane is Dupont Tyvek Housewrap which is breathable - can the shiplap not go directy onto that? I could put the OSB on the inside...

Building a custom shed 3x2 CLS studwork walls, with OSB sheeting on outside, membrane cover then probably 15mm shiplap. Should I go 9mm or 11mm OSB? Ditto for the roof (flat) which will be covered in standard roofing felt. Also - aside from the bottom studs, the rest of the CLS won't be...

How very condescending. Good quality cast aluminium is incredibly expensive - for this set, I'd be looking at over £500 for replacement -that's the only reason I haven't taken the easy route and simply painted over the numerous existing layers - it's a job WORTH doing properly. It seems there...

Actually scratch the caustic soda idea - I'd forgotten that stuff reacts with aluminium!

Yes, I've backed away from the blowtorch plan - too many small bits that could quickly melt if I wasn't careful. Some bits are flaking, others are not - it's also quite ornate, which makes scrape work a nightmare. I think a jetwash will remove some, but 90% of it will remain. I only used paint...

I've been given a patio set made from cast aluminium (I think). It's been painted a number of times with hammerite but it's flaking off in places so needs attention and the layer of paint is now so thick, it looks awful. I figured I strip them back to the metal and then spray them with...

Aye - I had good results with my shed, but that was with a Timbercare product which is more like a paint than a stain. Not sure yet how to finish the decking off, although you can get stainable wood fillers these days - I've never used them, but this will be a time to experiment I think...

Huh? If you mean the existing holes in the decking? It's double sided and I'll be using the opposite side to before, so the existing holes are neat and tiny - I plan to go around with wood filler after putting it down, and then stain it.

No thanks - it will look messier on top, and it will take 10x longer to do the job as every screw would need to be precisely located, and even then, I'd almost inevitably end up with several splits.

It'll mean the screws are going into the boards 0.5" from the end, instead of 1" from the end - far more chance of the boards splitting.

How does 380-390 centres give me wiggle room?

I've been given about 20 sq metres of decent quality decking. The only problem is that because it's used, the planks are already cut to a different size - I've tried to work on the assumption that every length needs to be rounded down to the nearest multiple of 400mm (the joist spacing). I'm...