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Water jets from the shower on the bath could quite likely squirt towards the lamp and certainly get it wet so I agree with EFLI could do with a Globe type or something else with a decent IP rating. C2 Could also do with a decent coat of paint

Your board does require updating with RCD/RCBO protection SP and also AFDD (on sockets) to meet current Regs , RCD in particular if you use electrical equipment outdoors such as a hedge trimmer or lawn mower. It's probably safe in terms of over current protection though. The house will only need...

Depends how high your load is but will mean Running a larger cable and a larger MCB. Also why on Earth are you wanting to plug in some kind of Mixer into a kitchen circuit

Isn't that product three phase? Edit (sorry inbetween posts above...)

You could argue that having different manufactured MCBs there could be an undue strain on one make as they don't fit exactly the same when they are installed on the busbar - this could be one reason why the left hand MCBS aren't as neatly aligned as they could be. You asked for advice and any...

From what I'm reading the board was completely taken out (or all circuits) and then refitted - the right hand RCD has been reconfigured with 3 mcbs and the left now has 6. The labels are all over the place with gaps in between the MCBS whoever installed it was wrong to say it was satisfactory...

Well the new board has mixed manufacturers MCBs (that alone makes it non compliant afaik) and looks awful with the cover on, there's no time delay RCD. I don't understand why whoever fitted the board didn't use BG over Contactum, very odd. The second electrician seems correct.

If it's only 3.3V can you not just use a telephone / data or Bell wire? To join a Wago box with ends doubled over or even an inexpensive joint box. Staple gun the cable? Or cleats should be fine.

As long as it's at a high point I can't see an issue, I'm thinking of installing one myself so will see what others suggest.

Sounds very much like it's a Spur off the Ring but could be part of a Ring so test away to find out. Do you know where it goes after the Joint box? Maybe a Fused spur / FCU will help if it's just a spur unless there's already one upstream somewhere?

Yes that's true now. I took my 2391 in 2007 and the exam was written with no book either!

John, I cut all the relevant insulation back, cut the length of sleeving and dress the cable with a small service loop on each conductor before I clamp the cable down. I guess I've got a knack for it now.

It's all I use now John. I find them easier to terminate & better designed to clamp cables.

Although clearly it's accessible I'd replace it with a maintenance free box after tidying it up a bit and introducing a little more earth sleeving.

I skip read that tbh. I'd test every socket on an EICR for ZS measurements and that would take almost a minute each so 22 minutes just for them alone especially if it involved moving a few bits of furniture! The R1+R2 on the lighting circuits would take sometime to determine the last light...

That's 4 way block on the light but a three way block on the instructions no wonder you're not sure!

Maybe he's a fast runner then as Murdo says! Or did he have an assistant shorting things out for him?

Apart from the Cooker circuit CPC being incorrect - think that should be 2.5 the results look okay. I'd have liked to have seen a separate ring/radial for the kitchen but that's maybe just me. You've got 22 sockets what size property is this.

I think you're correct poppy. Were there paper instructions just to be on the safe side/double check?

I'm not sure what the C3 is referring to either unless there's another isolator before the board? Surge protection C3 fair enough though some on here argue whether it really should be a requirement. The C2s in the report - has it more depth ? 4 circuits not protected by RCD depending on the...