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So its pot luck what might be delivered, unless you have a 'Physical' store where you can check the packaging before purchase.

Anyone know if there is any validity to this statement posted by Honeywell Support? "There are different part numbers for the T3R wireless programmable room thermostat: T3R - Wireless version - Y3H710RF0053 ( this has his own receiver box) T3R - (compatible with BDR91) - Y3H710RF0053-1."

It was an Exide LFB carbon boost 2.0 EL600 60ah. Cost, including fitting £136.80.

Just to finalise this thread, I’ve already had a replacement fitted. Thanks to all contributors.

Checked a couple of local independent Garages today and both have the programming procedure to re-code the system. So I am using one of those, prefer to support local traders, and their costs are less than Halfords. Thanks to everyone that has made a contribution.

I’m not absolutely sure but I think it has. Otherwise, I would have changed it out rather than paying Halfords the extra for fitting. I expect they will have the expertise/equipment to change it out seamlessly.

Yes, I'm planning on get it changed out in the next few days. Thanks for all the input.

Lots of data there. This is the one that stands out for a non-tech like me; 21/10/2025 IDE01834 Battery voltage 12.256 V (Engine Off) Its not too dissimilar to my reading of 12.17v.

Really appreciate that. A cursory look and it suggests Halfords may be my best bet, Yuasa with a 5 year guarantee £155 fitted.

Thank you for that. The battery is not displaying any of the usually failure symptoms, no problem starting, dash light goes out once started and the battery ‘status window’ is black. It’s just I have seen that car batteries generally last for 4-5 years hence the reason for doing the test. Is...

I’ve got an August 2016 VW Polo (22K Miles) with its original battery and while there are no obvious signs of failure I don’t want to suffer a sudden breakdown. Using a multimeter I’ve taken some readings; 1)After standing overnight 12 deg (Garaged) I get 12.17v. 2)Engine running for 2 minutes...

Agree 100%.

Thanks for the update. Measurements I’ve taken from mine. AC input = 245v AC output at 8v = 10.7v (no load) AC output at 12v = 15.4 (utilised for current Nest Hello doorbell) AC output at 24v = 27.9. So, it’s not too dissimilar.

Thanks for those words of comfort. Yes, I’ve got the same transformer currently using the 12v output (actual reading 15V) for my Nest Hello which has a 'Chime Wire Connector', probably similar to the Rings resistor. (This chime connector allows the chime's wires to deliver constant power to the...

Was about to order the C31 + mini chime when I noticed two deal breakers. You can’t use the SD card slot on the T8023 mini chime to record, it has to be fitted inside the doorbell. The recommended transformer requirement for the C31 is 16–24V at 30VA max 40VA whereas my current one is rated at...

Just an afterthought and if I’ve understood this correctly, the downside to the hardwired option is the lack of a functioning doorbell should the internet fail.

Thank you so much for taking the time to respond. That image quality is really impressive.

Really appreciate your take on the Eufy. With the Nest I’ve had my Internet go down and then the system reports ‘Offline’, so am I correct in thinking that in such instances nothing was stored. One thing I believe is absent from the Eufy is the ability to scroll back, a nice feature on the...

Any positives/negatives so far. My Nest Hello is failing, that coupled with high annual charges is forcing me to look elsewhere. I’m looking at Eufy or Reolink. The Eufy will accommodate my current hardwired set up, with mechanical chime, I don’t believe the Reolink will.

The battery on my current Nest Hello 1st gen doorbell is failing. When I opted for the wired version some 5 years ago little did I realise that it also had a built-in battery. I know these can be replaced but it’s a real pain and you run the risk of damaging other components in the process...