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Yes, and a hammer so you can beat the thing to death when it isnt working properly! I will see if I can identify where the buzz is coming from. It usually happens when you first switch the boiler on, or first switch central heating on, and is definately the PCB as I have removed it to check...

Anyone any thoughts?

Hi all, Another problem with our biasi 24s....... When switching to CH there is an electrical buzz from the PCB. This lasts for a few minutes then stops and the boiler will fire up. Sometimes the buzz will return but the CH stays on. CH will stay on for a while but then tends to stop...

At the moment I am running the boiler via the timer. On for an hour, off for 1/2, that way we still have heating without it cutting out every few hours which is a pain! I will call BG tomorrow, but I doubt they will make it this week and I am away most of next week. Anyway, I will suggest the...

Ok, I will get BG to return and not let them leave until its fixed! If I get really stuck I will give you a call if thats ok Tony? Thanks.

Thats what I thought, surely disconnecting the wire from the coil, which I assume is some sort of solenoid, would shut the valve or at least close it cutting the gas supply and reducing the flame...?? however, if the solenoid is stuck open there would be no flame control at all, which there is...

So I assume the next thing would be to adjust the gas vavle and see if this makes any difference but I appreciate I am not a boiler engineer so it should be left to a CORGI registered engineer. I have a maintenance ontract with BG, they came round on new years eve to look at the fault. He...

As per the manual, I have tested the gas valve modulation coil resistance. Across the green and black wire terminals of the main coil the resistance is 125 ohm - as per the manual. The upper ON-OFF operator is 1500 ohm (manual says approx. 1260 ohms) and the lower ON-OFF operator is 3120...

just switched the CH heating after it being off for 3-4 hours. Fired up fine, pulled the green wire off the green gas vavle - no change in flame height. Pulled the black wire off - no change in flame height.

By cut out I mean the overheat stat, the small red push in switch. By turning the CH knob down, the flames dont reduce. On min the flames are still 2-3 inches high and remain that way until the boiler over heats and cuts out.

I could test it right after cut out, I guess I would be looking for open circuit? What else should I look for for NTC failure? I have bought a new NTC today anyway, I thought if it isnt that I could take it back. I could fit it and see what difference it makes? Thanks for your help Ben

Tried running boiler after cooling down for an hour with all rads set to 1 on TRV's. Boiler cut out within 2 mins. Set all rads back to 4 on TRV's and boiler ran for an hour or so as before....?? Not sure what this means..?? Thanks Ben

ok some more info, I have just sat next to the boiler for the last hour and monitored what happens; Both NTC's read 10k at cool temp. With CH pot on full a whistle can be heard coming from the main heat exchanger. At 1/3, the whistle disappears. All rads set to 3 on TRV's. All rads hot to...

Is there a way to check it first? Is there a resistance value it should have? Thanks Ben

sorry gas4you, did you say something...?? :wink: :lol: So how come the BG man didn't know this..?? What am I paying £14 a month for??!! I might cancel now. If my understanding of the manual is correct, I need to replace the main circuit NTC which is on the LHS of the boiler? To do this...

ok, after turning the stat down - even the rads on 3-4 are hot to the touch. You can put your hand the top of the rad for maybe 3-4 seconds then it burns. The rads downstairs seem hotter than upstairs but not by much. so what does this mean? not sludge? Thanks Ben

I have put the stat on min so I will see what happens. It has been set to about 1/3 since this problem occured but all the rads are still too hot to touch, even one set to 2 on the TRV. The temp gauge has never worked but BG said I will never need it so just left it, I guess I could get them...

Thanks for the replies - I wasnt expecting any replies so quickly! :D To clarify, it is the small red button under the black knob. If I leave the boiler to cool for 10 mins or so and push the red button back in, it works again for another few hours or so. The heating is on now so I will...

Our boiler has had this fault for a few months. It will run happily for a few hours then cuts out. This generally only happens on CH as we never run the hot water for more than 20 mins or so. BG say I need a new boiler as it would cost about 1k for them to fix by replacing both heat...

Thanks. So is it a case of just change the seals/o-rings or a new heat exchanger? I think a plumber did 'fix' the leak before but obviously not good enough. Thanks for your help Ben