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have you tried turning the screw back the other way?

flame rectification probe? not detecting flame check electrode gap is 3-4 mm and not damaged, check for loose connections on electrode and earth wires.

http://www.siamp.com/index.php?option=com_hotproperty&task=viewtype&id=34&Itemid=42 pick the one that looks similar to yours and it has pdf file under product

http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=RerK_YmahXoC&pg=PA222&lpg=PA222&dq=Panel+Link-Fuel+Timed+Sundial+Plan&source=bl&ots=eAM3Yf7unp&sig=YKVGIVZl9FSJ1oCZ-O_cuR5IDcU&hl=en&ei=zyUySp2ZF5fMjAesy42hCg&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1

depends how old system is, but could be pump, diverter valve or plate heat exchanger are full of sludge causing it not to work

depends how old system is, but could be pump, diverter valve or plate heat exchanger are full of sludge causing it not to work

depends what type of shower your fitting, but have a look at these. http://www.screwfix.com/prods/67432/Plumbing/Compression-Fittings/Yorkshire-Kuterlite-Wallplate-Elbow-617W-15mm-x?source=aw&cm_mmc=AffiliateWindow-_-DeepLink-_-Na-_-Na...

Diverter valve sticky or shot

sounds like air in system or blockage. with the boiler running can you feel heat in the pipes at the pump? 1) check that the gate valves either side of the pump are open. 2) close one end of all but one rad with pump running, work your way around your system, open another rad and...

if the shower is a cartridge type they fail to cold so you don't scald yourself. if you know what shower it is you could google shower spares.

http://www.aqualisa.co.uk/Trade/Trade-Counter/Installation-Guides/ just click on your shower here, should help with you problem. they have a parts store as well so you should be able to repair it.

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/67432/Plumbing/Compression-Fittings/Yorkshire-Kuterlite-Wallplate-Elbow-617W-15mm-x you secure (one of the above) below finished surface of wall and screw your bit in with ptfe tape rapped round the thread

OP said "bath rooms's " in post something quite new you could look at would be the alpha flowsmart system. I only offer this as another alternative for you to look at and cannot offer any good or bad criticism about the product as I have only read about it but again like others have...

how long has the system been installed?

you would be better advised to replace lead pipe with new plastic from new stop cock. don't just join a bit of copper into the damaged lead pipe because you will cause "electrolytic corrosion" it would take a few years but eventually it will leak again.

better prices here http://www.showerspares.com/products/instantaneous_electric_showers/mira_sport_electric_shower or http://www.screwfix.com/prods/33640/Bathrooms-Showers/Showers-Enclosures/Showers/Electric-Showers/9kW-Mira-Sport-Electric-Shower

did he fit a gate valve or a lever type valve. gate valve:- make sure it fully open, if so air locked, if you connect hot and cold feeds to washing machine together you can force cold water up to cylinder removing air lock. lever valve:- will cause slow flow due to smaller opening in ball.

if the DHW temp is higher than stated in flow chart then change the pot sorry i assumed it locked out.

the valve with three pipes is your 3 port valve and does what you say, the other is there as a safety device for the unvented cylinder. you first need to find where the noise is loudest. eg around the boiler or cylinder.

part No 42 235 is the isolation valve. not clear on drawing but a flat blade screw driver should turn it off. if you lift the inner cylinder of part 42 314 it should slide freely up then drop when water has been reliesed. if you remove the push button and remove the distance washer does...