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Thanks Westie. I have just been searching on the internet and found that concrete had good thermal dissipation - so maybe there is no factor to apply.

OK - more generally then - what would be the correction to apply - if any to 2.5mm in concrete - I have the tables for cables laid in insulation and cables running together in groups, but don't know the effect for cable in concrete

That'll be a hell of a lot of chasing up the walls to the loft to replace all of the cable. The back box looks like it has been broken like that at the bottom because the cable won't fit in the normal hole (it's too big)!

The flat was built in the mid 80's - top flat - concrete floor - the whole ring has been done in this stuff - feels like a hard rubber - each core is spearated. The cable goes under the concrete - about 2 inches below floor level. I wish to break into the main - knocking out about four...

Each core is separated and is on the existing ring - 2.5mm? Not sure of the effect on current carrying capacity due to being buried in concrete.

"Builder made one" Sounds dodgy and you may not have one with a non return valve. This should do it. http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Heating/Central+Heating/Straight+Braided+Filling+Loop+Part+L/d230/sd2708/p83963

Taylortwocities - I am unsure of what is required from BC because I have not done this before, and do not know what they require. If I am required to complete an installation certificate then I will need to either hire, borrow or buy the correct tester. If they will allow me to get a sparky in...

Hi John - I get the point, but that's the case for every house in the country pretty much isn't it? If I complete the ring, why would I expect someone to break it? If it remains intact, a ring has a heavier load capcity doesn't it - that's what I assumed would be the main advantage of me...

Hi Flameport - thanks. I am guessing that they are asking to check how competant I am with doing the works. I suppose the set of questions they send out will put some people off. Well the trasnformer has got to be more than 10m away - cos I don;t know where it is, so I'm inclined to answer...

Hi John - thanks. I am creating a new bathroom by halving the size of the existing kitchen and then releasing the existing bathroom to use as a bedroom. In essence, it means relocating light and sockets - a fairly simple task - and so I have informed BC. They have sent me a list of things...

I am trying to gain a measure of the Prospective Fault Currents of my supply for building regs. I could ask the supply company, but they will probably overestimate. I have a table for England showing the what these currents would be for 25mm and 35mm supply, depending upon the "length of...

Thanks guys. 1john - I assumed that it would be better to have ring, and assumed that this "set up" was a bit odd, but ajrobb said it wasn't odd. Not sure why you asked your second question, but obviously a break in a ring would get me what I have now on these two radials.

Just trying to plan how the electrics are currently set up in my property. I have identified the ring main serving most of the sockets, and how they flow together by shutting off the mains, removing every socket, and doing a resistance test after connecting neutral to live, tracing each...

Sorry bernard - didn't see your response. In fact it seems sensible to have two separate fans, I'll just downgrade the power and get a slightly cheaper one - yes I think thge regs says e.g. 10mm gap at bottomof door. Are regular switches on outside of bathroom still allowed?

Ah ... like this ... http://www.edwardes.co.uk/externalIndex.jsp?skid=MAN1230L Looks like a possible solution. So would that be ok - two backdraft shutters and a single in-line fan, opearted by two standard switches in parallel? Would it obviate the need to consider the bathroom...

... or just have another standard bathroom fan as well, operated by the same switch ...

Oh balls - two fans then? ... and two runs of ducting - and two holes in the wall?

Just trying to plan the ventilation in the kitchen and bathroom in a refurbishment I am doing. No soffits and property is a top flat, so too costly to go through the roof. I'd like to use a standard extractor fan and cooker hood to extract out, but the main problem is that the length of...