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You could turn off one or both of the heating isolation valves as a temporary fix while you get it repaired.

Sound like the expansion vessel is flat which is not uncommon with Vaillant boilers.

Have you checked the room thermostat has voltage when you select CH at the programmer ?

It all a load of ballcocks, take a look at the later Vaillant Ecotec boiler for example and compare it with the early Ecomax E model, much the same layout but the 613E, 824E and others have a massive cutout in the front casing to accommodate the black plastic control box which just rest up...

Suck or Blow, inside the outer casing is negative (Suck), inside the combustion chamber is positive (Blow) you would have to go back to the Potterton Netaheat to find positive pressure inside a boilers outer casing.

So very true but those same tw@ts are now running the show.

I have worked on thousands of Vaillant boilers and never seen it unless the flue seals are perished or damaged and then CO readings are fairly low if they were off the scale as your suggesting the boiler would lock out every time. Also I might add a plenum chamber is at a pressure above...

Technically putting 4 self tapping screws into the holes which are there for the badge could be considered as modifying an appliance if you wanted to be really anal about it and yes there are those who would RIDDOR you for doing so. I came across a contracts manager for a large company who...

How simple it is to convert is very much down to your personal skill level, an experienced engineer would think its fairly easy, you need to know your limits when it comes to DIY as its often cheaper in the long run to employ a professional. I questioned your understanding of your system from...

Was the system full of sludge when you first drained it? How long is it now taking to heat a full cylinder? How does it compare with the time it took before? I still think your best move would be to convert your system to fully pumped and get all the benefits that would give you.

Hi Claudia, have you not got access to a smart phone as photos or a video of the plumeing taking place around your window could only strengthen your case, but its more likely to be seen when the weather is colder just like a car exhaust is. The system pressure has absolutely nothing to do with...

Thats normal with a gravity HW system, your boiler can heat the water faster than the indirect coil can exchange it to your DHW, it may take an hour + before the water in your cylinder is up to temperature, longer if lime scale has built up on the coil over the years.

Did you get 0.8 bar when the system was full (pressurised)? You should have around 0.9 when your system is de-pressurised, it makes a big difference.

Many boilers will lock out if the pressure drops below 0.8 bar so it might be a good idea to top yours up to 1.2 (when cold) using the filling loop.

1 to 1.2 bar is normal when cold, if pressure drops below 1 it needs topping up this should happen no more than once or twice a year unless you need to bleed your rads excessively.

Hi, the pressure rise and fall is down to the expansion of the system water, as it heats up it expands more, most of this expansion is absorbed by the expansion vessel, if the pressure starts to go much higher than 2 bar its probably an indication that the air pressure in the expansion vessel is...

De-pressurise you boiler and leave drain cock open while you charge up your expansion vessel to that stated on data plate, normaly around 0.9 bar, close off drain cock, re-pressurise & vent system.

Just watched a Youtube video from Allan Hart "How to Solder Copper pipe without a flame UK" he uses a product called Super Power and its approved for gas, what do you think?

Looks llike it what we thought all along but I expected there to be a small O ring, good luck with everything.

If your system pressure is dropping as a result of the leak then the leak is from the diverter valve.