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YOU did make sure the clock was ON also

You would expect a wire from boiler terminal 1 to the COM on receiver and a wire linking boiler terminal 2 to ON on receiver. Really cant understand how it ever cut off with that link left in. Good luck

That red wire is the link which should be removed when external controls are fitted so yours must have been done some other way, remove it and see what happens.

I think its 2 screws then the facia panel hinges down shows it in the manual, one question did your old room stat ever work as if it did then the link may have already been removed, your first post threw me as you said you didn't have a room stat.

Look at the manual on page 31 is the schematic of the terminal block, remove the link wire between terminal 1 & 2 hopefully everything will then work correctly.

Download the manual from here https://www.baxi.co.uk/-/media/websites/baxiuk/files/discontinued-products/combi-boilers/baxi-combi/baxi_combi_105_installation_and_service_manual.pdf?la=en Is that base plate you posted picture of for your new wireless receiver?

See the barcode on the lower right, the model is there, picture is of a Platenum 33 I think.

What model is your Baxi? That picture you posted is the backplate used on several makes of programmers/timers so give a clue what make & model do you have?

You could have the pump wired via a pipe thermostat attached to the flow so it would continue to run on until temperature dropped.

Call it a day as your uncontrolled system is no better than a gravity one, you could reduce your running costs buy 30% + with a new boiler and controls.

Cant see why not, and dont worry too much about the lead in solder as some people mains cold water supply is still through lead pipework.

With all these condencing boilers now it cant be long before you wont know the difference (Acid Rain)

Might be a good thing to have your expansion vessel/ PRV checked also, keep adding fresh water to your system could bring its own set of problems.

Not my problem, but you dont know its condense, it could just as easy be rain water,or an installer having a schitty day and couldn't be bothered to clean up the cut end of his flue and pushed the flue gasket out when he assembled it, who knows? Without being rude, having spent my entire working...

Lighten up, he actually wrote: you wont be able to tell its fitted correctly without taking it apart.

She didn't say if she was or wasn't pressing the reset only that the pilot light was going out, been a while since Ive worked on one so dont remember too much about them. Yes Ive just familiarized myself with the manual so before anyone says it: It hasn't got a pilot light lol

SALUS do a plug in programmable wireless room stat which can be picked up for under £35 on Amazon (ST620WBC)

A blind man could see thats not fitted correctly :-)

I agree, that is why I suggested the CW inlet filter could be blocked, Ive seen it a few times before on the ecoTec, its basically a nylon washer with a fine mesh and if it gets blocked up there will be insufficient flow through the aqua sensor and the boiler wont fire up for HW. The aqua sensor...

The only valves on the Vaillant EcoTec combi that isolate the hot taps are: the main isolation valve on CW inlet & the filling loop valve which when in its open position isolates the cold feed to the PHE , when the filling loop valve is turned off again water then flows to taps via the PHE...